Last night I went to a mass tasting organized by Enoteca Fasano, a very high-end importer. The site was modern and airy, but the mass of people made it a complete zoo. Taking notes was incompatible with any kind of timely progress, so forgive these extremely sketchy impressions (names and vintages are copied from the brochure).
I tasted less than half the wines present, winding my way from stand to stand, feeling like a mendicant, trying to penetrate the static throng in front of each, growing increasingly irritated by others’ tendency to linger, as if they were standing at the counter of the local pub having a leisurely beer. Adding to the discomfort, my palate became increasingly numbed as I switched back and forth between whites, reds, and dessert wines from different countries and vintages, but my tilted, stained but expectant glass remained ever hopeful.
2004 Pierre Usseglio Chateuneuf-du-Pape (France) – surprised to see such a high profile wine here; well-rounded, good quality, but nothing memorable.
2004 Terza Volta Malbec (Argentina) – light, minty, good QPR.
2006 Domaine Bernard-Defaix Chablis (France) – lightweight, boring.
2004 Conterno Fantino "Bricco Bastia" Dolcetto d’Alba (Italy) – good fruit, good grip.
2000 Brigaldara Amarone della Valpolicella Classico (Italy) – acceptable amarone, not memorable.
2005 Siro Pacenti Rosso di Montalcino DOC (Italy) – good rosso, again not memorable.
2004 Château Grand Moulinet Pomerol (90% merlot 10% cab franc) (France) – nice cedar aroma, good fruit and balance in the mouth.
2000 Château Haut Surget La Grande Sélection Lalande de Pomerol (France) – standard issue mediocre Bordeaux, pass.
2006 High Tide Sauvignon Blanc (Chile) – made by Cono Sur, a good Chilean winery. Interesting white grape or muskat taste, almost like an Italian fragolino, but with acid. OK, but nothing much.
2006 Isla Negra Reserve Chardonnay (Chile) – also made by Cono Sur, extremely fruit forward, good, but not very varietal.
2004 Querceto "L’Aura" Chianto Classico (Italy) – good, nothing much.
2006 Dolcetto d’Alba Rousori Icardi (Italy) – acceptable.
2006 Barbera d’Asti Tabaren Icardi (Italy) – acceptable.
2003 Langhe Nebbiolo Surisjvan Icardi (Italy) – delicious, lovely aromas, excellent. balance, fruit and grip, first wine of the night that I’d buy.
2004 Barbaresco Montubert Icardi (Italy) – very tannic, not as good as the Langhe, perhaps because too young.
2006 Moscato d’Asti La Rosa Selvatica Icardi (Italy) – I love moscato and the first sip of this is refreshingly different from everything up to now, but once that fades, this becomes overly sweet and cloying. Pass.
2005 Fattorie Parri Chianti (Italy) – OK, nothing much.
2004 Château Tour Baladoz Saint Émilion Grand Cru (France) – most intense coffee nose I have ever encountered, but a bit sweet and light in the mouth. Pass.
1999 Château La Croizille Saint Émilion Grand Cru (France) – ah, finally something at the right point in its evolution, not great but very good, giving everything it’s got.
2003 Château Haut Breton Larigaudiére Cru Bourgeois Margaux (France) – forgettable.
2005 Maycas del Limari Sauvignon Blanc Reserva Especial (Chile) – OK, but nothing special, despite the name.
2004 Il Colombaio di Cencio "I Massi" Chianti Classico Riserva (Italy) – excellent, another one I’d buy; good fruit, good tannins, good mouth feel, what I want from Chianti.
2003 Il Colombaio di Cencio "Il Futuro" (Italy) – a super Tuscan blend (sangiovese, cabernet, merlot), more expensive, less satisfying.
2002 Il Colombaio di Cencio "Sassodoro" Vin Santo del Chianti Clássico (Italy) – oxidative aroma, thought this might be a defect, but the owner seemed evasive but unfazed by my question about whether this was normal. But tasted delicious, and the oxidative aspect blended beautifully with the rest. Good stuff.
2004 Primitivo di Manduria Felline DOC – couldn’t be further from a zin. A bit light, uninteresting.
2003 Dorna Velha Tinta Barroca (Portugal) – tasted only because 100% tinta barroca. OK, nothing special. But this winery operates what appears (from the brochure) to be a very nice hotel in the Douro region that seems like a good bet for anyone visiting (http://www.quintadosilval.com).
2004 Ruta 15 KM 29 Malbec (Argentina) – high end expensive malbec, very soft, full flavors, but entirely lacking in grip, completely forgettable.
2007 Calle Funes Tardío (late harvest Sémillon & Sauvignon Blanc) (Argentina) – completely bland, ugh.
2006 Domaine Pierre-André Bourgogne Blanc Réserve (France) – simple and uninteresting.
2005 Domaine Pierre-André Rully Blanc (France) – good fruit, quite decent.
2005 Domaine Pierre-André Passe-tout-grains Le Boutoir (2/3 pinot 1/3 gamay) (France) – uninspiring.
2005 Domaine Pierre-André Nuits-Saint-Georges (France) – quite delicious for a village wine – would buy if decent price (hideously expensive here)
2005 Domaine Pierre-André Savigny-les-Beaune Premier Cru Clos des Guettes (France) – good but not great.