Game 3: The first time we tried this next wine, the Red Wings went on to win the Cup; the second time, they were less successful. Despite the loss in Game 3, we’re hoping for 2 out of 3 to the good.
1997 Domaine Bois de Boursan Châteauneuf du Pape, $21.99, 13.5% alc.: There’s a little rust to the otherwise clean, dark color, and the wine exudes classic Bois de Boursan character, with its dusty, spicy black fruit, iron and cola flavors and aromas. There’s a big, rich core of fruit here, and structure to burn, but with an hour in a decanter, it’s already beautiful. It might be peaking at around 15 years of age, or it might take a little longer, but whatever the case, it offers cleaner, more complex and delineated flavors than the following selection, and look at that price tag. This remains one of the more underrated CdPs around, and owner-winemaker Jean-Paul Versino and importer J et R Selections have done well to hold the price down to still affordable levels, unlike the following producer.
Imported by J et R Selections, Mt. Pleasant, MI
I thought this next one, last tasted in late ’02, would provide an interesting contrast to the Bois de Boursan, and it did, in a 2nd fiddle kind of way.
1997 Domaine du Pégau Châteauneuf du Pape, $25.99, 13.5% alc.: This shows good dark color, if slightly cloudy, but it’s not as effusive on the nose or as expressive on the palate the Bois de Boursan. There’s a whiff of the barnyard over restrained black fruit when it’s first poured, following through with flavors reminiscent of earthy, smoky black plum, iron and with some air, pleasing shades of leather. It does give a fairly good accounting of itself as the memory of the first wine fades and this one opens does open nicely with air, but even so, it’s still rough and not ready, coming off as big, brawny and still youthful. With its structure and solid core of fruit, this is a 15-20 year wine, I’ll wager. Too bad the price of these has skyrocketed over the last few years. We won’t buy it anymore.
Imported by J et R Selections LTD., Mount Pleasant, MI
Reporting from Day-twah,
geo t.