With pasta tossed with mushrooms and truffle oil:
2002 Overnoy/Houillon, Arbois Pupillin (poulsard):
If one insists that the “earth speak” through wine, this is the bottle for you; pours orange but settles in the glass to transparent garnet with a browning rim; the nose is so enticing – wild strawberry with the leaves, pomegranate, newly turned earth, and very light truffle tones (not even a hint of oxidation despite the color); much the same in the mouth with a capsaicin-like note (probably borne of bright acidity), a weightless delivery but no lack of intensity; long, spicy finish. Diane says it reminds her of France – the countryside – and although I’ve not been, I get it. A pretty wine that will not be for everyone but that speaks to me as few others do. $21 – worth multiples of that to those who love such wines. Superb with the dish.
With white asparagus with hollandaise sauce:
1999 Egon Müller, Riesling Kabinett Scharzhoffberger:
Fresh and lyrical aromas, somewhat floral; clean, bright and somewhat akin to spring water in the mouth with slight sweetness, excellent balance and a medium length finish. Lovely, and good with the dish.
With halibut with pasta and pesto:
2005 de Villaine, Bourgogne Blanc Les Clous:
Firm and closed upon opening, gains aromatics and textures with air but this is not for present serving. I could discern that it has gotten rid of the smells and flavors of oak that I detected on release and that it has fine acidity and structure. Too closed for much else . . .
With cheeses:
1999 Drouhin, Volnay Clos des Chênes:
Has shed its baby fat but is still a juvenile; very Volnay with its stony structure underlying striking red fruit and considerable length to the finish. But this needs at least a decade in the cellar as it only showed faint, albeit inviting, hints of development. Grand cru quality.
With chicken sausages with feta and spinach, hummus, sliced zucchini in lemon sauce, fresh tomatoes with basil and grilled Nan;
2005 Dom. Vissoux, Beaujolais VV Cuvée Traditionnelle:
Try this; think of the sound a whip makes when its cracked; now imagine scents and flavors that carry that same stamp; crackling black-raspberry fruit with mineral undertones; vibrant, alive and utterly pure. It is impossible to have too much of this wine; graceful, vigorous and joyous stuff! And $14, on release.
Best, Jim