WTN: Arneis, Macon, and the physiology of taste

Last night was cod wrapped in Savoy cabbage, with an Provencal baby artichokes with olives and a tomato combo (fresh cherry and sundried).
The cod recipe needed a cup of white wine, as I knew Betsy needed a cup of Chardonnay for tonight's starter, I went with Chard, the 2005 Vrac Macon-Villages (and yes, I realize it makes no sense to name a bottle wine Vrac). Clean, innocuous, with straightforward Chardonnay apple/pear flavors and a clean if short finish. Fine for $4. B-

For dinner, the 2006 Funtanin Roero Arneis. Lighter style of Arneis (at least compared to Giacosa,my standard till prices rose), with sweet apple and honeydew, a little almondy note on finish. This is light almost to the point of being dilute, but stays just on the right side of the fence for me. Not compelling, but nice for a $10 Arneis. B

Oh yeah, the artichokes. Artichokes are a fabled wine killer. I've sometimes gotten a truly strange metallic note, but that's generally from big artichokes served with just a sauce. In this case, we experimented, and had consistent results. The efects were barely noticable if having in a combination with the olives and tomatoes, but if one had a bite of just artichoke followed by wine, the wine tasted a little sweeter and a lot flatter.

I recently read where 20% of the population has no reaction to cynarin (the ingredient in artichokes that caused the taste interaction), most people experience sweetness, and a few experience intense bitterness. That follows the news that they isolated rotundone as the likely cause of pepperiness in Syrah (and as part of white pepper), but again that 20% of people are totally insensitive to it (no evidence it's the same 20%). We already knew the varying reactions to TCA, various strains of brett, etc. (and some people can't smell "asparagus pee"). Then there's the supertaster/taster/nontaster spectrum. Reading various people's reactions to "green notes" in some vintages of Pichon Lalande (or 2004 Burgundies and some Cab Francs) it scarcely seems like everyone is tasting the same the same thing. Apparently we're not!

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

Coincidence, last night Marcia prepared cod marinated in miso and saké for which I opened a half bottle of 2004 Matrot Meursault (unexceptional, so didn't warrant a note...). Will do the asparagus experiment soon to see if I'm 80 or 20.

Note carefully that it's artichokes that have cynarin, with the 20% insensitivity rate. I've read that only about 40% of people can smell "asparagus pee"

My note on the Matrot Meursault (also from a half):
a 375 of the 2004 Pierre Matrot Meursault. Crisp and citrusy, a little oak in background. Good length, concentration. I thought this was pretty decent Chardonnay, but not very Meursault-esque. All about lemon and slightly underripe pear fruit, not the fatness I associate with Meursault. Ok -nay, good-
Burg, but I like the good to excellent 2004 Meursault Bourgogne AC at least as much as this Meursault. B

Oops, I meant artichoke, not asparagus... Won't edit, otherwise your comment won't make sense. Yes, your note on the Meursault sounds similar to what we experienced (with perhaps less pleasure); the lack of typicity was the main disappointment. Marcia didn't even go back for a second pour, leaving me to lushly finish the little bottle while pretending it was a lemony dessert.

Only 40% smell aspargus pee? That seems odd-it's a common joke among friends during the aspargus season here in California.

I remember reading the 40% somewhere. This reference says "about half":
http://lifeandhealth.guardian.co.uk/foo ... 29,00.html

This one claims only 22%:
http://dsc.discovery.com/guides/skinny- ... ragus.html

There's also the issue if everyone produces the compound that some of us smell.

Of course, I wonder how widespread the subject groups were. It wouldn't be surprising if certain ethnic groups were more or less sensitive.

Last night was cod wrapped in Savoy cabbage, with an Provencal baby artichokes with olives and a tomato combo (fresh cherry and sundried).

What are the artichokes, Dale? Are they the Jerusalem(sunchoke) or globe, and if the latter are they fresh or preserved somehow?

.... (and some people can't smell "asparagus pee") ....

In this house, it's 50% that can't. (i.e.Neil)

Sorry Sue, I was unclear, these are baby regular (globe) artichokes, just the recipe is listed as Provencal.