With crackers and smoked salmon spread:
2005 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Dom. Pierre de La Grange:
Tangy, on both the nose and palate; bright acidity, white fruit and floral notes and that almost resinous tang that fresh Muscadet can have; longer finish than expected. Delicious both on its own and with the dish. $9, full retail.
With pasta with veggies and olives:
2001 Edmunds St. John, Los Robles Viejos:
This may be a southern Rhône blend but it acts more like a St. Joseph with clean syrah smells and a distinct mineral ingredient; firm in the mouth but not closed with red fruit, mineral and some light garrigue accents, fine balance and structure; medium length, integrated finish. A wine of whole cloth with better structure than is typical for CA reds; no doubt, it has a long shelf-life. Gained presence and complexity with the dish.
With Caesar salad and pizza:
1998 Giacomo Conterno, Barolo Cascina Francia:
Very elegant wine with soil and roses, pretty nebbiolo fruit, good complexity and an almost weightless delivery. The label says 14.5% alcohol; you coulda’ fooled me. A lovely bottle that is showing quite well. Terrific with the pizza but then, it’s terrific by itself, too.
With cheese nachos, salsa, hummus and coleslaw:
1993 Sullivan, Merlot:
In those days, Sullivan made wine to age – at 15 years this has finally become what it was made to be; decanted off substantial sediment; a bit of VA along with bottle bouquet, pungent earth and dark fruit tones, some Baker’s chocolate and lots of complexity; still structured in the mouth but with fully developed fruit and earthy flavors, complexity, a certain rusticity and good sustain. Pretty nice wine and really balanced with the meal.
With pasta with zucchini, garbanzo beans, olives and garlic:
2005 Laurent Tribut, Chablis Côte de Léchet:
Less primary than on release but also takes a little while to open in the glass; floral, lemon zest, white fruit aromatics with light accents of fresh air and spring water; the same elements at play in the mouth but now its showing a core of ample fruit that wasn’t noticed last year and some structure that, while understated, creates an intensity in the mouth that is very attractive, good balance and a lovely, long finish. Still a feminine wine but now more woman than girl. Very nice with the dish.
With fried soft-shelled crabs:
2003 Hirtzberger, Grüner Veltliner Axpoint:
A concentrated, open wine with good depth, character and acidity, and none of the difficulties of the vintage in evidence. Charming by itself and good with the food.
With braised short-rips:
2005 Landmark, Pinot Noir Kanzler Vnyd.:
Rhubarb, orange peel, red fruit nose with some underbrush accents; not quite as complex or nice on the palate with candied fruit and echoes of the elements of the nose, big textures and a bit hefty; medium length finish. Not to my taste by itself but this came alive with the short-ribs and was much better than I expected.
Best, Jim
