In Which I Don't Get the Hype (2007 Germany)

[David M. Bueker]

So I posted some notes on a few Leitz 2007 that I really liked this morning. Later in the day I was in New York for a big tasting with many good-great producers (though not all by any means) in attendance. After hearing so many positive things about the wines, and tasting a few last night I was ready for a fantastic ride.

Well I have no idea why, but it didn't turn out that way. Yes there are some fantastic 2007s, but there are fantastic wines every year. Some producers really surprised me, but others (that I frequently like) left me cold. I was shocked by my reaction, so I cross-checked with a few trusted tasters as to their impressions. They confirmed my impressions.

My general thoughts are below, with some specifics where warranted. If a producer is not listed then I did not taste their wines.

The Vintage
2007 for me is a very good year, but it only has spots of excellence. Yes it's consistent (very consistent), but I was rarely wowed. It seems that it was easy to make good wine, but hard to make great wine. I did find a vintage signature: aromatic flowers. I kept picking up elements of gardenia, lilac, lily, etc. that really struck me. That I liked a lot. It reminded me of 1997, a description I kept coming back to. The acids were lowish as in 1997, at least the tasteable acids. I asked some producers about acid numbers after I tasted the wines, and I heard a lot of 7.5-8 grams of acid per liter. For my palate that's too low. 2001 had acids in the 9-10 grams range, and that's about my speed (generally).

Producers

J. J. Christoffel
The first table I went to, and it was one of the best. The kabinetts (Wurzgarten and Treppchen) were both very good and the corresponding spatlesen even better. I found a direct stylistic line from the Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese to the Auslese*, and really liked them both.The Erdener Treppchen Riesling Auslese** and Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Auslese** were a bit soft for my taste and really never jumped out at me.

von Othegraven
The Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling Kabinett was bracing yet had little flavor interest. The Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling Spatlese Alte Reben was much better, crisp, fruity, leafy (good Saar leafiness) & essence of Saar Riesling.

Reuscher-Haart
A producer that isn't well known, but that has impressed me over the last few years. Their liter bottling of Piesporter Treppchen Riesling was direct and fruity, exactly what a liter bottle should be. Both of their Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Spatlese bottlings were very good, with the #15 showing melon, flowers and peaches, while the #12 was spicy with more slatey notes and richer peach fruit.

Jakoby-Mathy
This producer has stepped up in the last year or two. Their Riesling 'Balance' was fruity, had some phenolic richness and was overall "balanced!" It's also inexpensive and under screwcap. The Kinheimer Rosenberg Riesling Kabinett was floral but hollow. The corresponding spatlese was a big step up, with very bright, fresh fruit and greta persistence, again especially for such a bargain price. They also were showing a beerenauslese that was a real knockout.

Selbach-Oster
Johannes Selbach always fields a fine collection. Neither dry wine moved me at all, nor did the Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett, a wine which I normally love. It just never got off the ground. The Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Spatlese was another story though. It really jumped out of the glass and stayed around for a long time. The Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spatlese was darker in aspect, but also heavy in impression. The Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Spatlese 'Schmitt' was one of my three or four wines of the day, and an extension of the prior Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Spatlese. It really took the whole package to a new level. The Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 'Rotlay' was in a word, exotic. It was very minty and tropical, and seemed like it wanted another six months in bottle to decide what it wanted to be.

Willi Schaefer
This was the first time Christophe Schaefer participated in this tasting event. I found the Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett #2 to be flat in impression, but the Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett #9 was brighter and very refreshing. The Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett #16 was chalky, apples and overall very stony. It also had that floral aspect I mentioned earlier. I liked it. The Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spatlese was sweet, crisp and reminded me of eating a Macintosh apple. This was my favorite wine in the collection. The Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spatlese #12 was more exotic, with apple on the front and pineapple on the finish (how do they do it with grapes?). I was a bit puzzled what to make of it. The Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese #17 was really an extension of the spatlese, with a bit of cooked fruit compote. It was ok, but never really took off.

Kerpen
This producer has been up and down for me. I really liked their 2006 collection, but nothing in the 2007 lineup captured my palate until the Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese* which was essence of Granny Smith apple.

Meulenhof
I liked this collection. The Erdener Treppchen and Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinetts were solid, and the Wehlener Sonnenuhr was the most archetypal Mosel wine I tasted all day. It just proclaimed "apples and slate" the whole time it was in my glass. I was not as impressed by the Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese, but the Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese* was intense, slatey and carried lots of bright fruit. It was another favorite of the day for me. I found their Erdener Pralat Riesling Spatlese too soft for my taste.

Hexamer
This was a favorite of mine today. I was not thrilled by the Spatlese Trocken (insubstantial), but the Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg Riesling 'Quartzit' was bracing, rich and showed some of that phenolic substance that older vintages (e.g. 2001 and 2002) had. The Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg Riesling Kabinett was very floral with citrus accents, but drifted away very quickly. A Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg Riesling Spatlese** and Spatlese*** were both intense and bracing, with noticeable botrytis. Really interesting wines that stood out as different on this day. There was also a beerenauslese that was very rich and delicious, but out of my preferred price range.

Donnhoff
Starting out with a new site, the Kreuznacher Kahlenberg Riesling Kabinett showed slightly bitter pit fruit and refreshing, elegant mouth presence, but seemed to lack focus and grip. The Oberhauser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett was more focused, but had less flavor. Odd. The Kreuznacher Krotenpfuhl Riesling Spatlese was a big step up, with lots of peach, cherry and apple fruit and solid minerality. The Felsenturmchen Riesling Spatlese was also very focused, lean and intense. The real fireworks were reserved for the Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Spatlese that was one of the handful of wines of the day. Intense, balanced and packed with fruit and stone, the Brucke wowed both me and my wife, a rare double wow. The Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Auslese was another outstanding wine, but carried some botrytis which detracted from the purity the wine usually shows. Overall some impressive wines, but not at the overall level I was expecting.

Jakob Schneider
A producer that really picked up their game in 2007. I thought all their wines were at least very good, but the Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Spatlese was a showstopper. All I wrote was "Outstanding! Wow!" so my thoughts were pretty clear. The Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Auslese was also very, very good with spicy, persistent flavors.

Kruger-Rumpf
Only one wine really hit a sweet spot here for me. The Binger Scharlachberg Riesling Spatlese showed great intensity of fruit along with bright acids. The other wines seemed in need of something to give them a pick up.

Diel
While the wines were there I really wasn't, so no comment as I was headed out the door and could not focus.

Strub
The Gruner Veltliner Kabinett Trocken was light and refreshing, but no more. I thought their Niersteiner Oelberg Riesling Spatlese Trocken was very smoky and tasty. The Niersteiner Bruckchen Riesling Kabinett was everyhting I had come ot expect; chalky, lemony and refreshing. The Niersteiner Paterberg Riesling Spatlese was very complex, with peach, herb and stony elements, a slight bitter fruit edge and a dry finish. Finally the Niersteiner Oelberg Riesling Spatlese was as smoky as its dry cousin, and also quite racy despite its richness. A very good value collection here.

Geil
This collection was solid, with two specific highlights: the Bechtheimer Geyersberg Riesling Spatlese showed a lot of structure, as well as a long, lemony finish. I liked it a lot. The Bechtheimer Hasensprung Riesling Auslese was more of a dinner table auslese, not too sweet, and we tested it with some of the cheeses available, and it made a great cheese wine.

Leitz
I tasted a few more wines with Johannes. His Eins Zwei Dry "3" Riesling was crisp, lively and easy to drink; a model for inexpensive, dry Riesling. The Rudesheimer Berg Kaisersteinfels Riesling Trocken 'Alte Reben' was in a whole different league. This was outstanding dry white wine with balance, body, persistence and long fruit and stone flavors. The Rudesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Spatlese was very fine, with typically tropical and honeyed aromas and flavors. The Rudesheimer Berg Roseneck Riesling Spatlese was for me the wine of the day, with its minerality, focused fruit and never-ending finish nearly eclipsing everything else (except a very few wines) I tasted.

Spreitzer
Neither dry wine won my hear, though the Lenchen Erstes Gewachs was a very good wine. The Kabinetts were also a bit lacking, until the Oestricher Lenchen Riesling Kabinett which stood out as possibly the kabinett of the day. The Winkeler Jesuitengarten Riesling Spatlese was the most floral wine of the day, intense and yet obviously integrated. I found the Oestricher Lenchen Riesling Spatlese '303' to be rich and tropical but lacking freshness. The Oestricher Lenchen Riesling Auslese was actually more refreshing and still quite uplifting even with all its body and richness.

Darting
I was impressed by their liter bottling of Durkheimer Nonnengarten Riesling Kabinett, as it was fresh and lively, a great summer wine. The Muskateller Trocken and Durkheimer Hochbenn Riesling Kabinett both tasted too bitter for me. The Gewurztraminer was nice (roses, roses, roses) but rather insubstantial. I would be afraid it would evaporate in the bottle. Their Scheurebe Spatlese was fine for me, but probably too catty for most folks. The Scheurebe BA was a great value dessert wine though.

And there you have it. I think there were 5 wines (or so) I would buy in big quantities. The rest were good, but something (maybe me - who knows) was missing. Others I trust felt the same.

David, you are fast in coming to be my barometer what to expect of the wonderful world of German wines. I look forward to your informative threads and posts. You have my respect brother.

Michael

PS...you too Oswaldo and Rashaan (sp?)
Thanks guys

Michael

David, Thanks for the notes. I think that the NY tasting is the first one up for the TT portfolio. Those wines landed a mere 3 weeks ago, do you think that bottle shock was playing a part?

Cheers,
-Bill

Have people really been hyping the vintage?

As you said, there are always exciting wines from exciting producers, but I thought the predicted glory of 07 was that there would be more drinkable kabinetts than in recent years. And, it sounds like you found some good ones?

[David M. Bueker]

David, Thanks for the notes. I think that the NY tasting is the first one up for the TT portfolio. Those wines landed a mere 3 weeks ago, do you think that bottle shock was playing a part?

Cheers,
-Bill

I've done this event for the last 10 years, and when the wines are great they are truly great. 2001 showed well under the exact same circustances. So did 2005. Sure the wines (or me) could have been off, but it wasn't that they were bad or anything (certainly not!), just not exciting.

I did find some good things, just not the high level I was expecting based on some prior reports.

Let me reiterate the question of Rahsaan: who has been hyping the vintage? It is a very good vintage with great wines made by the usual suspects, some great surprises (von Hövel) and some disappointments (Egon partially) in my eyes. I hope I didn't induce into a wrong conclusion....

We are on a same wavelength BTW on Schaefer, where I also prefer the Himmelreich. Too bad you didn't taste the Auslese but I am surprised by the poor performance of the Kabinett -2-, which I had last week and which was actually fresher than the -9-. Too bad you couldn't taste the Himmelreich Auslese (my favourite of the regular portfolio) and as you, the Domprobst Auslese bottlings (10 and 17) didn't do it to me. Side question: was Christoph on form?

Regarding Dönnhoff, I don't like the flavours of pears but if I had to choose two, I would take the Brücke and Krötenpfuhl (the latter because of its cooler aromatics).

One final comment - acidity above 8 g/l in 1997 sounds impossible as the acidity was rarely that high even in 1996 (where 8-8.5 where the norm). Are you sure of your facts? Actually, if I had oen criticism to make for the 2007 vintage, then if would be that the acidity is often rather coarse. The warm weather in October was a gift sent from heaven to allow to reach phisiological ripeness of the grapes. However, the associated nights maintained (thankfully) the acidity levels but didn't help to "mature" the acidity as it did in 2001 or 1994.

The Boston show, held on the previous day, went very well. The wines were received in perfect condition days and days before the tasting itself. I found no evidence of bottle shock, nor did the producers when examining their own wines. I was wearing many hats that day: host, bottle opener, ice fetcher, beer fetcher (You're welcome JS), etc. therefore I didn't manage to taste every wine offered, asking my wine team to fill in the gaps.

David, you may have set yourself up for disaster by starting with the Christoffel wines, its all downhill from that apex. On a side note, Austrian, not German, Bert Salomon's wines stole the show in classic fashion.

I guess I have been hyping 2007. I really think it is outstanding. Not outstanding in your face as 2001 and 2005 - where they were outstanding, which was not everywhere. But I have not tasted nearly as widely as you have, so I should be more guarded. I looked at the wheather pattern, some grapes around harvest time, and tasted Schaefer, Haart, and Dönnhoff. That's not enough data, but to me it proved enough: a great wine maker could produce wines from Kabinett to Auslese that leave nothing, I mean *nothing*, to be desired.

Peter

So YOU are the culprit!

I like 2007 no doubt BUT I don't find it perfect. If I may really make some critique at high level:
- the "weight" of the wines is slightly too high for Kabinett
- the acidity is malic in nature, not perfectly ripe and in the high 8-8.5% - at the level of 2004 or 1996.
- it remains a freakish growing season with not the perfect slow physiological maturation process like in 2001 or 1997.
- The aromatic flavour profile can be on the slightly boring side (any vintage playing on appley flavours runs than risk actually)

This being said, the good guys made some brilliant wines so we will see ...

So YOU are the culprit!

I like 2007 no doubt BUT I don't find it perfect. If I may really make some critique at high level:
- the "weight" of the wines is slightly too high for Kabinett
- the acidity is malic in nature, not perfectly ripe and in the high 8-8.5% - at the level of 2004 or 1996.
- it remains a freakish growing season with not the perfect slow physiological maturation process like in 2001 or 1997.
- The aromatic flavour profile can be on the slightly boring side (any vintage playing on appley flavours runs than risk actually)

This being said, the good guys made some brilliant wines so we will see ...

1997 was not as perfectly slow as you suggest. September was very warm, and the grapes matured rapidly. Only Saar and Ruwer were truely great because of that. 2007 had much more hang times, and much slower maturation, even during the warm October. Dönnhoff was ready to pick by early October but provoked almost a révolt from his work force because he refused to send the troops out, and waited instead. Keller also took it slow (forgot to mention that I tasted them - his greatest vintage ever in my book). So did Schaefer. 2007 across the board has got to be better than 1997 by a mile - except maybe for Saar and Ruwer. I know, Jean, that won't bother you too much...

2007 vs 2001: probaly 01 cannot be beaten in the Middle Mosel, but ouside of that, I'm less sure.

I guess I must be fond of apples. Getting tired of peaches, apricots, and honey...

Peter

[David M. Bueker]

I guess I must be fond of apples. Getting tired of peaches, apricots, and honey...

Peter

Me too, though I still just missed the excitement of my favorites from 2001. 1997 is the vintage that kept springing to mind, the florality was anotehr reference point in that regard.

Jean - I've had numerous 2001s with acids in the 9 g/l or higher range. I have many 1996s in my cellar with 10+, and that's too high unless you have a ton of buffering extract. Did I say anything specific about 1997 acid levels? I was really meaning to compare the sensations in the wines.

Thanks, David for your notes. I now have two printouts of notes on the TT portfolio to guide my buying.

David,
The enthusiasm in my notes and comments to the Grosser Ring tasting might be part of the reason for what you regard as the hype for this vintage. Since I haven't tasted many other 2007s from other German regions, I have no opinion at all regarding the quality of the vintage as a whole for Germany, but I maintain my view of the splendid quality of the wines from M-S-R, at least those of the Grosser Ring members. When reading your notes, one can note that you mostly tasted wines from other regions and also that your notes of the Mosel wines you did taste are quite positive. Furthermore, our preferences might differ a bit, since I, at least normally, am more of a "trocken" guy, though most of the sweeter wines at the Grosser Ring tasting really seduced me.
Let's keep on tasting and posting to be able to collect data for a final verdict of 2007 in Germany. I quite look forward to that journey!
Cheers,
Anders

Let me reiterate the question of Rahsaan: who has been hyping the vintage? It is a very good vintage with great wines made by the usual suspects, some great surprises (von Hövel) and some disappointments (Egon partially) in my eyes.

What was such a surprise about von Hövel? Do you not usually like the wines? I thought the Hütte wines were were some of the standouts among the VDP, although of course I love that Saar acidity. I found them preferable to the Zilliken wines, for my brisk acid-loving palate.

And the Muller Scharzhofberger kabinett and auslese were pretty darn tasty and elegant. Was it the spätlese you found questionable?

[David M. Bueker]

Perhaps in the grand scheme of things I have achieved in what I set out to define: 2007 for me is very good vintage. I like it. I just don't see it as special in the way some other recent vintages are special (i.e. 2001 for bright, classic wines and 2005 for rich, monumental wines). I tasted about 120 wines, and ended up with 5 that truly moved me, and another 15 or so that I liked enough to think seriously about purchasing. In a 50/50 split of Mosel versus other regions, I ended up with 12 Mosel wines on my hit list, and 8 from other regions.

My wife said something in the car on the way home (and this is a direct quote): "It's a useful vintage, and there are some wines I would like to have." That about sums it up for me.

My wife said something in the car on the way home (and this is a direct quote): "It's a useful vintage, and there are some wines I would like to have." That about sums it up for me.

Useful is good, joyful is better! The MPLS TT '07 tasting is next Thurs -I'll chime in then.

Thanks,
Bill

"It's a useful vintage, and there are some wines I would like to have." That about sums it up for me.

That is imho belittleling the vintage. I promise to do more research, but I predict 2007 will stay in much higher regard, not for epic wines like 2001 and 2005, but well ahead of 06,04,03,02,00,99,97,96,....

Peter

Let me reiterate the question of Rahsaan: who has been hyping the vintage? It is a very good vintage with great wines made by the usual suspects, some great surprises (von Hövel) and some disappointments (Egon partially) in my eyes.

What was such a surprise about von Hövel? Do you not usually like the wines? I thought the Hütte wines were were some of the standouts among the VDP, although of course I love that Saar acidity. I found them preferable to the Zilliken wines, for my brisk acid-loving palate.

And the Muller Scharzhofberger kabinett and auslese were pretty darn tasty and elegant. Was it the spätlese you found questionable?

von hövel was only marginally good in 2002, 2003, 2004 (only great one: scharzhofberger) and 2006. In 2007, all wines are at least delicious and some are great.

regarding Egon Müller, see my notes: I have an issue with the Spätlese -6- and while the aromatics and current texture of the Auslese 2007 is good, It may lack some RS for the long-term.

Zilliken has higher acidity than von Hövel IMHO. YOu don't agree?

I predict 2007 will stay in much higher regard, not for epic wines like 2001 and 2005, but well ahead of 06,04,03,02,00,99,97,96,....

I see you leave out 1998. Were you thinking Abtsberg QbA?
I had another bottle yesterday evening and it was stunning ... Fresh, zesty, lively: this remains a milestone wine.

Zilliken has higher acidity than von Hövel IMHO. YOu don't agree?

I didn't get the numbers for all of the wines, but the 07 Zilliken wines on show (Saarburger rausch kabinett, spatlese, auction spatlese, and auslese goldkap) seemed fuller and rounder than the von Hovel Hutte wines, which were brisker. The Zilliken wines were also very fine, and I would not call them soft by any means, but the von Hovel's were showing lighter with a more delicate touch, which spoke to me. I thought both collections were delicious, and I could see people preferring Zilliken.

As far as von Hovel's history, aha, I see. Yes, I guess I was just thinking of the 05s that I loved, and then I had some positive memories from 06, but never really drank a lot of their wines from the vintage.

I see you leave out 1998. Were you thinking Abtsberg QbA?
I had another bottle yesterday evening and it was stunning ... Fresh, zesty, lively: this remains a milestone wine.

Exaclty - plus the other 98s from Grünhaus. Add to that the 1998 Prüm WS Kabinett last saturday... Prüm made great 98s. So did Dönnhoff. And Müller Catoir. I am not so confident that 07 is really better...

Peter

[David M. Bueker]

"It's a useful vintage, and there are some wines I would like to have." That about sums it up for me.

That is imho belittleling the vintage. I promise to do more research, but I predict 2007 will stay in much higher regard, not for epic wines like 2001 and 2005, but well ahead of 06,04,03,02,00,99,97,96,....

Peter

I prefer '04 and '02 to '07. The others I can see.

[David M. Bueker]

I thought I would post my "hit list" of wines I tasted Tuesday. When I place 3 check marks next to a wine I think it's really special. Two is excellent. Most (but not all) of what I buy ends up with two or three checks.

Three “check-mark” wines:
Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Spatlese ‘Schmitt’
Hexamer Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg Riesling Spatlese**
Donnhoff Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Spatlese
Leitz Rudesheimer Berg Roseneck Riesling Spatlese
Spreitzer Winkeler Jesuitengarten Riesling Spatlese
Schneider Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Spatlese

Two “check-mark” wines
Reuscher-Haart Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Spatlese
Jakoby-Mathy Kinheimer Rosenberg Riesling Spatlese
Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese
Willi Schaefer Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spatlese
Meulenhof Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese
J. J. Christoffel Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese
J. J. Christoffel Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Auslese*
Donnhoff Felsenturmchen Riesling Spatlese
Hexamer Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg Riesling Spatlese***
Hexamer Schlossbockelheimer In Den Felsen Riesling Auslese
Schneider Niederhauser Klamm Riesling Kabinett
Schneider Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Auslese
Strub Niersteiner Oelberg Riesling Spatlese
Geil Bechtheimer Geyersberg Riesling Spatlese
Merkelbach Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese
Leitz Rudesheimer Berg Kaisersteinfels Riesling Trocken ‘Alte Reben’
Spreitzer Oestricher Lenchen Riesling Kabinett
Spreitzer Oestricher Lenchen Riesling Auslese

Note: the Leitz Rudesheimer Klosterlay Riesling Kabinett would also qualify as a two check mark wine for me. I did not re-taste it on Tuesday since I had just tasted it Monday night (in much more agreeable conditions).