What is it with Domaine de la Vougeraie?

From 1999 to 2002 (and maybe after, but these are the only years I tried) these guys made some of the best Burgundies I've had regardless of vintage or terroir. Jill and I just polished off a 2002 Clos de Vougeot and it was easily one of the best wines from that commune that I've had. Clos de Vougeot is usually a minefield for a variety of reasons, this wine, though, was gorgeous; nose of violets and berries, vibrant fruit, elegant but serious, structured, full of life. This is a wine that would convert the greatest Bordeaux diehards.

In the last few months, I've also tried the Musigny and the Bonnes Mares, and I'm trying to find some lesser names from these years. Not cheap but not that expensive compared to the usual superstars, I'm wowed.

In that period (at least 2000-2003 or so, I think from 1998-1999) the Vougeraie wines were made by an energetic young guy named Pascal Marchand. He also made the wines from Launay. Both were owned by a mediocre (or worse) negociant, these were their attempts at quality. I think they decided quality was too expensive and fired him. A bit modern, but very nice juice. I wouldn't buy now w/o trying first, no clue who winemaker is.

edited for clarity, and because I made an embarrassing error ("there" for "their")

I had one of their '03 Gevrey-Chambertins. I remember it being quite potent and a bit harsh. I like Burgs that are on the delicate side. This one was not. My experience may have been related more to the wines youth than its quality.

Yeah, Sam, I think the combination of Marchard and 2003 would pretty much ensure that it wouldn't be on delicate side.

I did a little Googling, Marchand was winemaker at Comte Armand through the 90s, and then at Vougeraie (owned by the negociant Boisset )from 1999 to early 2006. So I'd guess the '99-2004 Vougeraie's were his wines, and he had a hand in the '98s and '05s.

Marchand used to be a regular visitor to Belgium, both in his Comte Armand and in his Vougeraie days. He is a rather intense man of French Canadian origin with a palpable drive for high standards. I can imagine that he may not have been easy to work with for commercially orientated people like Boisset. I tasted his Vougeraie range two or three times and found them very impressive, particularly with his persuasive advocacy, but never bought any. The importer has not shown this range at their annual tasting since his departure.

Thanks for digging guys,
I have looked a little into it as well and understand they used organic as well as Biodynamic methods. Whatever it is, the wines are very very good.
As far as Gevrey, in my limited experience, it has always been hard for me to find elegance in Gevrey Chambertin, I usually found the wines from that area to be more "animalistic" (is that a term?).

As far as Gevrey, in my limited experience, it has always been hard for me to find elegance in Gevrey Chambertin, I usually found the wines from that area to be more "animalistic" (is that a term?).

Jacques,

I think "animalistic" is a great discription of Gevrey. The best examples that I have had are rugged and meaty, yet complex. My favorite Gevrey's have been from Jadot. Of course, that was the first Gevrey producer I tried, so it may have calibrated my palate incorrectly. As with other Burgs, I would like to sample more producers, but my pocket book can only take so much.

Thanks Sam. I like Rousseau's Gevrey a lot and this was for me the standard by which I judge all Gevrey. At $50, it is time for me to downgrade to something cheaper, though.