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WTN: Volnay, Chianti, Rias Baixas, left Bank Bdx

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Dale Williams

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WTN: Volnay, Chianti, Rias Baixas, left Bank Bdx

by Dale Williams » Mon Jun 16, 2008 9:58 am

Assorted wines over the last 4 days:

2005 Peyrabon (Haut-Medoc), from 375 ml
Decent midweight, seems more Right Bank than Medoc- I would have guessed Merlot with the dark plum fruit and  round texture. A little bit of spicy oak, tannins are a little obtrusive, could probably use a little time. B

1998 Clos du Marquis (St Julien)
With lamb kebabs, and a green salad with mango. Fully mature, some cedar and earth, black fruit a bit on the thin side. Better nose than on palate, finish is a bit short. Some 1998 Medocs have made me rethink my aversion to the vintage on that bank, but this isn't a particularly strong effort. I do enjoy this, but it's ok rather than special, and if I cellar something from 7-8 years I'm hoping for special. B/B-

2006 Pazo Pondal Albarino (Rias Baixas)
Good acidity, clean, no sign of oak. Lemon, Granny smith apples, a little peach. Nice apertif, but not much in the way of complexity, depth, or length. Good summer quaffer, but not one of the more riveting Albarinos. B/B-

2005 Huber-Verdereau " Les Robardelles " Volnay

With buffalo hot dogs, sauteed ramps with bacon, and asparagus. Nice if slightly muted nose, opens up to a pleasant melange of red plums and berries, with a little chocolate and smoke. Palate is a little austere on night one, nice cherry fruit and clean acids but a bit dominated by the tannins. No wood evident. Nice if restrained. On night 2 it has opened its robes and shows what's underneath, a lovely midweight Volnay with earth, black cherry, smoke, and plums vying for dominance. Bright acids, tannins have integrated, lovely wine. Will revisit in 5 years. Never had this domaine before, a good argument for trusting a  store (I ordered this because Woodland Hills carried it, for me WHWC is to Burgundy as Chambers St is to Loire, Beaujolais or Piedmont: if they carry it, probably good). A few years ago I would have labelled as stupid anyone paying $30 for a Volnay AC other than Lafarge or Angerville, these days I consider this a bargain. A-/B+

2004 Fontodi Chianit Classico
With bistecca alla Fiorentina , beans, squash, and a salad. Meaty, substantial Chianti. Big fresh and dried cherry, floral nose, rich. Good acidity, ripe tannins that work well with the steak. Good length, a little leather develops with time. Gets warmer and lusher with air. B+

And a little (off-topic, a bit mawkish) side note re Father's Day. Betsy left Saturday to record a Beethoven Piano Trio in Michigan. She left behind a couple of nice gifts from Lucy (yes, we're the kind of people who refer to our dog's "mom" and "dad", sorry). David finished his term in Scotland a couple of weeks, but has been in Copenhagen with his dad and family. I picked him up at JFK Sunday afternoon. He talked to his mom by phone,found out it was Fathers Day in US, wished me a happy Father's Day. He asked if it was ok if he went out with a friend rather than have dinner at home. The thing is, the friend in question didn't go to her planned college this year. She was hospitalized with anorexia. She was leaving today, and last night was only chance to see her (he visited her in hospital last summer). One thing I love about Dave is he has stuck by a couple of friends who have had hard times. He was a super popular kid (I can't tell you how thrilled we were when he was voted "best hair" in his senior class!!!) but never ignored those who were less popular. To me , having a good kid (even if step) is the best gift for Father's Day.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
 
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Oswaldo Costa

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Re: WTN: Volnay, Chianti, Rias Baixas, left Bank Bdx

by Oswaldo Costa » Mon Jun 16, 2008 3:36 pm

You left the best "wine" for last!
"I went on a rigorous diet that eliminated alcohol, fat and sugar. In two weeks, I lost 14 days." Tim Maia, Brazilian singer-songwriter.

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