WTN: '04 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Kab HT

[David M. Bueker]

2004 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (6/17/2008)
After a few years in the cellar this is rounding into an outstanding wine. There's still a bit of cheesy funk on the nose (more cellar time anyone), but when it blows off there's lots of green apple, lemon and pronounced salty minerals. There's a touch of creaminess emerging on the palate, and it's backed up by plenty of fruit and a firm mineral backbone. The balance is great, there is no real sense of sweetness (despite the halbtrocken label) and it's just great, and great value, Riesling.

Thank you David,

I just tasted the 2007 tonight. That baby is as hard as nails and searingly acidic (not terrible, but I found myself laboring and scrutinizing for more fruit.) I tasted the 2006 in NY last August and commented to Johannes on how austere his (and other Mosel trockene and halbtockene) can be for me. He (unsuccessfully) tried to win me over and I left with the impression that he really holds this style very dear. Even his 'regular' bottlings veer to the dry side of things IMO. I haven't tasted his actual T/HT rieslings with any age on them (maybe I'll put a couple of these 07's down for a while) so I appreciate the note. Perhaps halbtrocken in a vintage like 2007 is a little redundant to my taste. I suppose that they have their place in this world, but for the same reason that I don't buy much Sauvignon, I won't buy much Mosel Trocken either. The Rheingau and Franken are another matter (I need to remind myself to buy more Pfalz. I do like them.)

Cheers,
Bill