Cabernet Sauvignon in ancient Greece?

I've been reading "Desert Island Wine," by Miles Lambert-Gocs, generally a light hearted and clever riff on wine history.

A serious addendum outlines his theory that the Balisca wine, which Pliny identified as Greek in the 1st century AD, had a key role in the evolution of grapes in southwest France, including Bordeaux, and is the oldest specifiable source of cabernet.

According to a Wine Appreciation Guild press release Pliny wrote that the balisca was already present in Rome's Spanish provinces in his time. "It is likely," says Lambert-Gocs, "that the balisca began crossing over the Pyrenees into southwestern France as early as that, since its quality was already recognized." Pliny paid attention to the balisca and became knowledgeable about it precisely because of its quality, which was also noted by the first-century Roman writer and agriculturist Columella.

By comparing Pliny's information with modern Greek and Albanian descriptions of native grapes, Lambert-Gocs traces the identity of Pliny's balisca and the 'black volitsa' of the northwestern Peloponnese, and the "vlosh" of coastal Albania -- where ancient Greek colonies flourished. Further, key traits of the volitsa (balisca) are seen in Cabernet Sauvignon, as specified and sourced in the addendum report in 'Desert Island Wine,' according to the author.

Lambert-Gocs is a long-time researcher on Greek wine history. His previous books are 'The Wines of Greece' (1990) and 'Greek Salad: A Dionysian Travelogue' (2004).

Does anyone have any further info on this?

Thanks, Bob

DNA analysis has already solved the cabernet sauvignon origin riddle. It's a cross between cabernet franc and sauvignon blanc, and not very old (a couple of centuries). Cabernet franc used to be called simply "cabernet" in Bordeaux until cabernet sauvignon started catching on.

The balisca traits in cabernet sauvignon most likely would have come via its ancestor, cabernet franc. Has anyone checked this out? If cabernet sauvignon has balisca genes and cabernet franc doesn't, that's significant.

-Paul W.

Right, Paul. I meant to write "Cabernet Franc." Bob

...Has anyone checked this out? If cabernet sauvignon has balisca genes and cabernet franc doesn't, that's significant.

-Paul W.

Paging Thomas!!

I've been in contact with Miles (the author).

First, let me say that not only do I like his writing, I like his attitude about wine. I've read two of his three books.

Miles isn't as far into the thing as to know about the science and the genes of the grapevines. He's reporting what he has uncovered from sources in Greece, and he is adding what he knows about Greek history, which is considerable, to form the hypothesis.

I had quite a conversation with Miles about his hypothesis and my views about the influence of earlier cultures on Greek grape growing. I have not been persuaded by Mile's arguments, and I'm certain that he hasn't been persuaded by mine.