WTN: My 1st Etna Rosso, plus Leitz, ESJ, Ribera

With duck hot dogs and grilled squash, the 2005 Leitz Rüdesheimer Klosterlay Riesling Kabinett (Rheingau). Just a hint of spritz when unscrewed. White stone fruit, good acidity, slate and flint. Good length, nice clean finish. B+
Just ordered the 2007 at $15.xx from Zachys, $2-3 more than I paid for this, but if it's near as good a real bargain in current market.

With grilled swordfish and a caper/butter sauce, a portabello, and green beans, the 2005 Edmunds St. John Shell and Bone (Paso Robles). This is a Roussanne/Viognier blend, neither my favorite grape- I just don't really get Rhone whites. But I like ESJ reds, so thought I'd give a white a try. I'm glad I did. It's got a little of that Roussanne oiliness, and a bit of the Viognier florality, but neither is overwhelming. Most encouraging, there is enough acid to keep it lively. Matches well with the fish with capers, good length, nice wine. Holds up well overnight. B+

While preparing some Italian sausage with peppers and onions, more green beans, and a salad, I opened the 2005 Arrocal (Ribera del Duero). Sweet berry fruit, a little hot on the end, comes across as a bit boring and empty. That's what I get for trying to economize, $11 Ribera is a gamble. B-/C+.

I had a long frustrating day, wanted to reward myself, and the Arrocal wasn't what I wanted with my dinner. So sent it into vinegar crock which needed some nourishment, and opened the 2004 Biondi "Outis" (Nessuno) Etna Rosso DOC. This is my first Etna Rosso, and while I know one should judge every wine on its own, I can't help comparing wines to what I know well. I liked this, and in some ways it reminded me of a Cru Beaujolais (Fleurie or Chiroubles, maybe) but in other ways possibly a Chianti Classico Riserva, But eventually the most apt comparison was a rather lacy Burgundy, maybe Volnay or Chambolle. I think I get a light toasted oak note on the nose, but its elusive and not found on palate. Pretty cherry fruit with smoke and earth, some light hints of tobacco and leather. Good acidity, persistent but ripe light tannins. I've never paid $25 for a Sicilian wine before, but this is a bargain. Nice wine, will get more. Imported by Selected Estates in NY, but I know Oliver McCrum brings it to West Coast. A-

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

Dale-
Good note on the 2005 Shell and Bones. I had it recently and thought the floral/Viognier aspects were more in the background than previous bottles. Nonetheless a very, very, nice wine and this is coming from another guy who really doesn't "get" whites from the Rhone.
Bill

... 2004 Biondi "Outis" (Nessuno) Etna Rosso DOC. This is my first Etna Rosso, and while I know one should judge every wine on its own, I can't help comparing wines to what I know well. I liked this, and in some ways it reminded me of a Cru Beaujolais (Fleurie or Chiroubles, maybe) but in other ways possibly a Chianti Classico Riserva, But eventually the most apt comparison was a rather lacy Burgundy, maybe Volnay or Chambolle. I think I get a light toasted oak note on the nose, but its elusive and not found on palate. Pretty cherry fruit with smoke and earth, some light hints of tobacco and leather. Good acidity, persistent but ripe light tannins. I've never paid $25 for a Sicilian wine before, but this is a bargain. Nice wine, will get more.

Hey Dale, what took you so long? (Ususally you're among the first to post on exotica)
While I cannot see the Beaujolais or Chianti references, you nailed the Burgundy aptness.
I love the grapes they use in Etna Rossos and feel that, although they have a southern weight to them (akin in some respects to good Chateauneuf du Papes), they also have that lightness of being that makes them so appealing and drinkable. Although $25 seems high, for the quality, it isn't. Of course, I'd like to keep these from getting bid up in price. My only question is "How will they age?". Like Burgundy, they are aromatic and full, but the tannins are so well subsumed within the framework that you never notice it.

Mark

Bill, maybe Steven can use that as a slogan: ESJ, the Roussanne/Viognier for folks who don't "get" Rhone whites!

While I cannot see the Beaujolais or Chianti references, you nailed the Burgundy aptness.

Thinking back (these were momentary thoughts) it was the red fruit, good acidity, and lightness (without being a lightweight) that made me think of all three, with the crunchiness of the fruit whispering Fleurie and the leather/tobacco reminding me of Chianti. Of course, I'm not one of those talented blind tasters (not that this was blind)

My only question is "How will they age?". Like Burgundy, they are aromatic and full, but the tannins are so well subsumed within the framework that you never notice it.

It seemed like a wine that would age well on the short-mid term. And I'm sipping now, held up well on day 2, which can be a good sign (though not definitive). But to me track record is best clue to longevity. Maybe someone else has experience with aging Etna Rosso (Oliver? Steve?)

[David M. Bueker]

Dale,

The 2007 Klosterlay is BETTER than the 2005.

I haven't had aged Etna Rosso*, but I've drunk a ten-year-old Etna Bianco (the Pietramarina from Benanti), and it was delicious.

Etna Rosso is the finest red wine I've drunk from southern Italy, and IMO by far the most interesting red wine made in Sicily, intriguing, complex; I agree with the Burgundy comparison. High-altitude vineyards in a hot climate can surprise you.

* nothing over ten years of age