WTN /Wine Advisor: Bargain anti-Chardonnay

[Robin Garr]

Bargain anti-Chardonnay

Chardonnay, which became the grape that many wine lovers loved to hate for a while there, seems to be regaining a bit of its luster as more producers move away from the "butter and sweet oak" formula that made so many of the Chards of the '90s all taste alike.

But even if we're starting to make exceptions, there's still an active "anything but Chardonnay" movement in the wine-geek community.

A couple of years ago I ran across a California Chenin Blanc that, tongue firmly in cheek, played into the anti-Chard phenomenon with the wacky moniker "Chard-No-Way." The other day I spotted the 2006 release, and it's just as good as the original.

Although it's a modestly priced bottle with a pop-wine look, it uses fruit from the Wilson Vineyards in Northern California's Clarksburg region west of Sacramento, a microclimate that many consider one of the best sources for Chenin Blanc outside its natural home in France's Loire Valley.

A citric, minerally, complex Chenin Blanc in a screw-capped bottle that sells at the winery for just $11 and that turned up at a local retailer for 8 bucks? This is the kind of deal that inspires wine lovers to joke, "back up the truck" to the wine shop door and fill 'er up.

Vinum Cellars 2006 "CNW Chard-No-Way" Wilson Vineyards Clarksburg Chenin Blanc ($8.99)

Clear light straw color. Delicious lemon-lime aroma with a subtly earthy back note. Fresh, crisp and tart, ripe and juicy white-fruit flavors built on zippy acidity. Although it's barrel-fermented in French oak, I don't find perceptible wood here, just mouth-watering and approachable Chenin Blanc. (June 17, 2008)

FOOD MATCH: A versatile pairing with poultry, pork or fish; it was fine with a simple Italian-style linguine with white clam sauce.

VALUE: A very good buy at the $11 winery price, and a great buy at this local price.

WHEN TO DRINK: Although it's meant as a drink-now sipper, Chenin Blanc can age capably for years, particularly under the sturdy metal screw cap.

WEB LINK: Here's the winery fact sheet on 2006 "Chard-No-Way" Chenin Blanc.
http://www.vinumcellars.com/vinum/catal ... at_id=1001

FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:
Seek vendors and compare prices for Vinum Cellars "CNW Chard-No-Way" Chenin Blanc on Wine-Searcher.com:
http://www.wine-searcher.com/find/Vinum ... g_site=WLP

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I just visited the Vinum Cellars website. The Chard-no-way Chenin Blanc is available right now from the winery at a case price of $66.00! Including shipping (extremely reasonable) to me, it comes to $6.90 a bottle. Talk about bargains! I've no idea how long it will last, but my order is in.

Norm

Chenin is actually one of the varietals that California can do well with. Unlike others that they persist in attempting like Sangiovese and Nebbiolo (pssst - aside to winemakers - when you producea thin strange wine from varietals like this, putting a price tag on them that exceeds the GOOD ones from the native land of these wines does not fool everyone into believing they will be worth it).

I recall very decent dry Chenin from makers like Kenwood from the late 70s as stand-outs among many failed attempts by others. Always at a good price, I don't understand why it doesn't catch on more. Maybe you need the magic word 'Chardonnay' and a big price tag to be taken seriously?

I recall very decent dry Chenin from makers like Kenwood from the late 70s as stand-outs among many failed attempts by others. Always at a good price, I don't understand why it doesn't catch on more. Maybe you need the magic word 'Chardonnay' and a big price tag to be taken seriously?

Clarksburg seems to be a very reliable location for Chenin in California, though a few good examples have come out of the Anderson Valley, too, IIRC. Pine Ridge's Chenin/Viognier (not quite what we're talking about, but close) is a pretty consistent QPR winner.

Mark Lipton

I've been talking to friends about this wine after trying it last month. It was recommended at a wine shop I visited in Dayton OH. We had it at a family picnic. I was pleased with how good it was.

I'm headed to the website to pick some up.

Thanks for the notes!

Bargain anti-Chardonnay

SNIP

Vinum Cellars 2006 "CNW Chard-No-Way" Wilson Vineyards Clarksburg Chenin Blanc ($8.99)

Clear light straw color. Delicious lemon-lime aroma with a subtly earthy back note. Fresh, crisp and tart, ripe and juicy white-fruit flavors built on zippy acidity. Although it's barrel-fermented in French oak, I don't find perceptible wood here, just mouth-watering and approachable Chenin Blanc. (June 17, 2008)

[

Robin, Our old Buddy Russ Sprouse turned me on to this wine a couple months ago, and when I tried to get some of it in Lexington, it was not available. (talked in email) with the distributor(s) rep.) I did some research and I found that the grapes are sourced from the same grower/vineyardist that Dry Creek Vineyards sources their chenin from. I buy the DCV locally for $8.99 a bottle, and I agree the guy grows great chenin, and at least two wineries do not screw it up.

I've been a fan of this and other Chenins mentioned here for some time. There are very few available nationally. Why haven't other producers in the area gone into it?

Unlike others that they persist in attempting like Sangiovese and Nebbiolo (pssst - aside to winemakers - when you producea thin strange wine from varietals like this, putting a price tag on them that exceeds the GOOD ones from the native land of these wines does not fool everyone into believing they will be worth it).

I recall very decent dry Chenin from makers like Kenwood from the late 70s as stand-outs among many failed attempts by others. Always at a good price, I don't understand why it doesn't catch on more. Maybe you need the magic word 'Chardonnay' and a big price tag to be taken seriously?

Elizabeth Spencer makes a great bone dry Chenin Blanc from organic Mendocino County grapes. Under $20

As for American Sangiovese-Heidi Barrett makes this thick syrupy 15.6% abv concoction for Showkett. Vile stuff-and $60. I know everyone's taste is different, but... Luna, depsite the Italian name, has a Sangiovese that was so sweet I thought I was drinking cherry Faygo.