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WTN: Pinks and whites

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Dale Williams

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WTN: Pinks and whites

by Dale Williams » Sat Jun 21, 2008 11:13 am

I grilled some pork chops to serve with a salad with golden beets, opened the 2004 Nikolaihof "Vom Stein" Riesling Federspiel. Intensely citric, with lemon and grapefruit and a little orange rind, just a tiny hint of petrol, dominated by a very rocky mineral finish. I generally think of Federspiel as drink young, but this could use some time. B++

Betsy got back from her recording session in Michigan Friday, she took care of the spinach and pasta, I grilled branzino and scallops. Wine was the 2006 Inama Soave Classico. Light but with some backbone, vivacious, lemon fruit with a little nut. I enjoyed, and took leftovers to my wine group. B+

After dinner Lucy and the dog walked with me to Roger's house, she went home to unpack and repack while I spent evening with my local wine group. We mostly do reds, but this was our annual rosé/white night before our summer hiatus. Wines served blind:

As I arrived, everyone was there, I was handed a glass of white. Light peach fruit and apricot , very floral, a little musky. A little tired seeming. I wondered if Alsace Muscat, told no, guessed Viognier. Yes, 1999 Christophe Pichon Condrieu. B-

Next up was mine, the 2007 Larmes du Paradis Rosé (Vallée d`Aoste)
Much lighter style than other nebbiolo based rosatos like Il Mimo or the Sella, a light and zippy strawberry infused wine. Probably better as an apertif than as a dinner wine. B/B+

Lemony white with some waxy notes. The latter leads me to guess Chenin, Fred says "close", I guess Romorantin. Good acidity, but a bit dilute, not my fave. It's the 2002 Huards Cour-Cheverny. B-

A pink that could use more acidic backbone was up next. A touch flabby, simple red plum fruit, once I heard French I guessed Bordeaux as I always don't like Bdx rose. 2007 Rose de Phelan Segur. C+

Next was a rather dreadful Languedoc Sauvignon Blanc, I was told it was organic, I'd call it thin and characterless. Sorry I didn't note name. C

A zippy citrus driven white, high acids, mineral and floral nose, I'm totally lost. Random guesses (Alsace?) get nowhere. I state confidently not Chardonnay. Alex says Burgundy, I'm shocked, but it isn't Chard, a nice 2006 Giraudon Bourgogne-Aligoté B

I'm also lost as to origin of next pink. I'm thinking Provence, but no. Good acidity, cherries and strawberries. Dave says it's a Puligny Montrachet, and I claim that's impossible for a rosé. OK, once unwrapped I get it, it's the 2007 Chateau de Puligny-Montrachet Bourgogne Rosé. I like better than I usually like their whites. B/B+

Rain starts and we move inside, we're close to leaving when Rob realizes he never poured his wine. Straight from the fridge and very cold, it's so pale I'm not sure if it is a rosé or if he poured a white into my glass with a little leftover rose. I look at other glasses and determine it is a rosé. Not giving a lot straight out of fridge, I get a little cherry and red plum, a hint of earth, and guess Pinot. It's another Burg, the 2007 F. Magnien Bourgogne Rosé (what are chances of 2 random Bourgogne roses, with neither a Marsannay?). B

No great wines, but a fun time, with good conversation (and arguments!). Not about wine, mostly. Happily walked home in a thunderstorm.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
 
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: Pinks and whites

by David M. Bueker » Sat Jun 21, 2008 11:40 am

I would actually be cautious in holding that Federspiel Dale. They sometimes seem really tight and in need of age, but more often than not after about 5 years from vintage they drop off a cliff (at least for me).
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Bill Hooper

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Re: WTN: Pinks and whites

by Bill Hooper » Sat Jun 21, 2008 11:55 am

David M. Bueker wrote:I would actually be cautious in holding that Federspiel Dale. They sometimes seem really tight and in need of age, but more often than not after about 5 years from vintage they drop off a cliff (at least for me).


But Nikolaihof?
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Re: WTN: Pinks and whites

by David M. Bueker » Sat Jun 21, 2008 12:43 pm

You know I have never found their more basic wines to be quite all their smaragd level bottlings are cracked up to be.
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Bill Hooper

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Re: WTN: Pinks and whites

by Bill Hooper » Sat Jun 21, 2008 1:06 pm

David M. Bueker wrote:You know I have never found their more basic wines to be quite all their smaragd level bottlings are cracked up to be.


I'm a huge fan at all levels (have you tried the Neuburger?) We have a date with the '06 Riesling Vom Stein Federspiel this eve.
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Rahsaan

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Re: WTN: Pinks and whites

by Rahsaan » Sun Jun 22, 2008 6:18 am

Was the general consensus that the Condrieu was tired?
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Jay Miller

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Re: WTN: Pinks and whites

by Jay Miller » Sun Jun 22, 2008 11:15 am

Bill Hooper wrote:
David M. Bueker wrote:I would actually be cautious in holding that Federspiel Dale. They sometimes seem really tight and in need of age, but more often than not after about 5 years from vintage they drop off a cliff (at least for me).


But Nikolaihof?


No less a personage than sfJoe has told me that he doesn't think Federspiels in general age that well. And he has a whole lot of experience with Austrians.
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Dale Williams

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Re: WTN: Pinks and whites

by Dale Williams » Sun Jun 22, 2008 12:34 pm

Rahsaan,
I think Fred (who brought it) didn't think it tired, but unsure of others' opinions. I retasted at end of night and thought it very tired then. But I'm not a real Viognier fan.

As to the Federspiel, I probably will hold my other a couple years. I've had 6-8 year old ones I've liked. But there were some 15=20 year old ones for sale in NY last year, didn't really impress me (though one of those was a GV, I think)
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Bill Hooper

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Re: WTN: Pinks and whites

by Bill Hooper » Sun Jun 22, 2008 1:31 pm

Jay Miller wrote:No less a personage than sfJoe has told me that he doesn't think Federspiels in general age that well. And he has a whole lot of experience with Austrians.


Federspiel must be no less than 83 Oecshle. I guess we could come closest by comparing them to Pfalz Kabinett (a far from perfect comparision, but about as close as we can get for a German reference.) I wouldn't feel completely comfortable aging dryish Pfalz Riesling Kabinett for a very long time, but I have tasted very good Austrian wines from less than stellar vintages in the 70's that had no more than 12% alc. or 83 Oeschlse (at one time the norm.) BUT all that said, this is still Nikolaihof and there isn't anything remotely 'Federspiel in general' about them.

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Rahsaan

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Re: WTN: Pinks and whites

by Rahsaan » Sun Jun 22, 2008 3:19 pm

Dale Williams wrote:Rahsaan,
I think Fred (who brought it) didn't think it tired, but unsure of others' opinions. I retasted at end of night and thought it very tired then. But I'm not a real Viognier fan.


Aha, interesting, I guess personal tastes have a lot to do with it.

Of course everyone says viognier in general doesn't age well and Pichon's style is so lacy I wouldn't (necessarily) peg it as having enough density to age. But, then again they do have more acid than many Condrieu and I surely wouldn't wager much money on my ability to predict aging curves..

So, I was wondering.
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Bob Parsons Alberta

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Re: WTN: Pinks and whites

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Tue Jun 24, 2008 9:03 pm

Rahsaan, you have been busted!!! Mixing with the likes of Goode and Alabaster......>

http://www.wineanorak.com/blog/
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Rahsaan

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Re: WTN: Pinks and whites

by Rahsaan » Wed Jun 25, 2008 4:37 am

Bob Parsons Alberta. wrote:Rahsaan, you have been busted!!! Mixing with the likes of Goode and Alabaster......>

http://www.wineanorak.com/blog/


Wow, he got that up fast!

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