WTN: Old Napa Cab, Vineyard Typicite, and Dry Farming

Given how much I enjoyed the green-yet-licorice-yet smoothness of the Freemark Abbey 1998 last year, and given that I wanted to get into air conditioning and out of the smoke clouds that dominate our air basin right now, I stopped at Freemark Abbey on my bicycle yesterday. They were doing an interesting comparative tasting of their two vineyard designate wines, Sycamore Vineyard and Bosche, 1990 vs. 2003.

I was quite impressed with how young and vibrant both 1990s were showing. No sign of falling apart or fading at all! I also liked the "old school" labels!

Nonetheless, I definitely prefer the Bosche bottlings. It seems earthier and smoother, with fine grained tannins that create that fuzzy mouth feel that is a personal favorite. The Sycamore Vineyard is much spicier, with a "sharp" note in both wines I'm not sure I like as much. I am thinking even more bottle age may be useful for a wine with this angular structure!

A little rich for my budget right now, but I love Bosche cabs. They also poured me a "Jospehina," which is the estate vineyard (just north of St. Helena) cabernet with a touch of Syrah for oomph. I really liked this bottling as well.

The very pretty and very helpful tasting room employee noted that the Bosche is "dry farmed." Which surprises me, given that we often don't get rain until November. I'm curious as to others' opinions on dry farming vs. irrigated vineyards, because I loved the Bosche!

Freemark-Abbey also makes a mean Petit Sirah. Dark, smokey savory character with good fruit and those gritty, fuzzy tannins I love. Yum! And, the 2002 Gravelbed Chardonnay is still showing beautifully. I can enjoy the oaky style if it is done this well, with beautiful acidity and crystalline fruit. Bravo!

The very pretty and very helpful tasting room employee noted that the Bosche is "dry farmed." Which surprises me, given that we often don't get rain until November. I'm curious as to others' opinions on dry farming vs. irrigated vineyards, because I loved the Bosche!

Interesting notes on the Bosche, Brian. It's been too long since I've had one. As to dry farming: keep in mind that much of France and Italy have that same "Mediterranean" climate that you're talking about, and they seem to be able to dry farm (which is required by law) just fine. Irrigation promotes vigor, but what you get is mostly vegetative growth, not what you really want. There are of course limits to dry farming, as Europe experienced in '03: vines will shut down or raisin prematurely in severe drought conditions. However, dry farmed vines will send roots down as much as 200 feet and most viticulturalists I've spoken with feel that the grapes produced by such vines have greater character and intensity of flavor.

Mark Lipton

The Freemark PS used to be a truly monumental wine. I recall the 1975 was absolutely opaque even when held up to the sun, for about 20 years.....

They mature into something quite nice that belies any impressions one might get if they opened them young (probably that they had tippled at a tannery vat).

The very pretty and very helpful tasting room employee noted that the Bosche is "dry farmed." Which surprises me, given that we often don't get rain until November. I'm curious as to others' opinions on dry farming vs. irrigated vineyards, because I loved the Bosche!

Brian, find the June Wine and Spirits Mag. They have a good article on dry farming. There was also some discussion on e-bob about the article that included some of the Cal growers. Both of those can provide you more insight than I could. However, that won't stop me and I think the answer is it depends. One has to have the site for it and even then there are times when many on your coast would like to have access to water. Even on my coast, it is now common practice to put in drip with every new vineyard. I did not do so since we average 42 inches a year but last year taught me why averages don't tell the whole story as I ended up having to use makeshift means to irrigate. I have thought about putting in a drip system now in prep for the next drought but have not done so yet. From where I sit, I would rather have the option to add water and not use it than be locked into dry farming.

It's a good thing to remember that the French actually do have irrigation during the growing season; it's called rain.

LOL. That's true, isn't it.