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WTN: Vissoux and Perroud Beaujolais

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Oswaldo Costa

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WTN: Vissoux and Perroud Beaujolais

by Oswaldo Costa » Tue Jun 24, 2008 7:31 am

My recently retired sister and brother-in-law know little about wine but accumulated a ragtag assortment of bottles during their many years in the Brazilian foreign service. Not just the residue of things they bought on the recommendation of others to serve at the parties they gave but also gifts from guests and other diplomats. Since they don’t know what should be drunk young and what should be held, there are a fair amount of past due bottles which I try, on occasion, to pry open in the name of science.

Last night I had dinner there and scavenged two 2001 Beaujolais using the argument that these babies were way past due. That turned out to be not quite true and not true at all:

2001 Domaine de Vissoux Beaujolais Primeur Cuvée Vieilles Vignes Non-Chaptalisées 12%
From a prestigious producer, a bit of barnyard immediately upon opening the bottle, with lively cherry and burnt sugar on the nose. A bit dilute on the palate, the fruit already a bit faded, but with lively acidity and a pleasant astringency on the back of the tongue. Over time, some bacon and tobacco start to appear, and the initial cherry flavor develops into a more typical Gamay strawberry. A bit past it’s prime, but still alive and giving pleasure. First time I see “non-chaptalized” as part of the name (or so it appeared).

2001 Domaine Robert Perroud Brouilly Sélection de Vieilles Vignes 12.5%
Had never heard of this producer, but was pleasantly surprised. Darker fruit than the preceding, closer in color and density to a Bourgogne than a Beaujolais. Upfront, elegant cherry flavor, and none of the telltale Gamay strawberry, that emerges only with gurgling. A touch too sweet, but quite good acid/fruit balance, crisp acidity, and reasonable weight. Tastes mature, perhaps optimal, and far from over the hill. Excellent with food.
"I went on a rigorous diet that eliminated alcohol, fat and sugar. In two weeks, I lost 14 days." Tim Maia, Brazilian singer-songwriter.
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Kevin O'Connell

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Re: WTN: Vissoux and Perroud Beaujolais

by Kevin O'Connell » Tue Jun 24, 2008 2:00 pm

Non-Chaptalisées is certainly weird, I wonder if this wasn't a slight at a certain well known Beaujolais producer? I'd love to hear the story behind this if anyone knows. Should I be drinking up '01's as a rule? I know I have some Burgaud CdP VV that I don't want to waste.

Kevin
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Re: WTN: Vissoux and Perroud Beaujolais

by Oswaldo Costa » Wed Jun 25, 2008 6:58 am

It's risky to generalize, but CdP tends to be much more longer lived than beaujolais, and 2001 was a very good vintage in the southern rhone, so I would hold on!
"I went on a rigorous diet that eliminated alcohol, fat and sugar. In two weeks, I lost 14 days." Tim Maia, Brazilian singer-songwriter.
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Re: WTN: Vissoux and Perroud Beaujolais

by Kevin O'Connell » Wed Jun 25, 2008 7:24 am

Oswaldo Costa wrote:It's risky to generalize, but CdP tends to be much more longer lived than beaujolais, and 2001 was a very good vintage in the southern rhone, so I would hold on!

Sorry, Burgaud is a Morgon Cote du Py Beaujoais................you must have thought I was totally nuts.

Kevin
Just a little nuts.
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Re: WTN: Vissoux and Perroud Beaujolais

by Oswaldo Costa » Wed Jun 25, 2008 7:41 am

Kevin O'Connell wrote:
Oswaldo Costa wrote:It's risky to generalize, but CdP tends to be much more longer lived than beaujolais, and 2001 was a very good vintage in the southern rhone, so I would hold on!

Sorry, Burgaud is a Morgon Cote du Py Beaujoais................you must have thought I was totally nuts.

Kevin
Just a little nuts.


Yes, I was scratching my head for a bit there! :)

Based on my extremely restricted sample, your Morgon may be optimal right now, but I am not a good source, since I usually pass on beaujolais (I know I shouldn't...). Let us know if you do open it!
"I went on a rigorous diet that eliminated alcohol, fat and sugar. In two weeks, I lost 14 days." Tim Maia, Brazilian singer-songwriter.
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Mark Lipton

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Re: WTN: Vissoux and Perroud Beaujolais

by Mark Lipton » Wed Jun 25, 2008 12:29 pm

Oswaldo Costa wrote:
Based on my extremely restricted sample, your Morgon may be optimal right now, but I am not a good source, since I usually pass on beaujolais (I know I shouldn't...). Let us know if you do open it!


I am not sure how wise it is to compare Kevin's Morgon to your wine, Oswaldo. If I infer correctly, yours is a Beaujolais Primeur (aka Beaujolais Nouveau), which has a very different life expectancy than a Morgon Cotes de Puy. Someone more knowledgeable than myself my correct that impression, but that's how I see it.

Mark Lipton
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Re: WTN: Vissoux and Perroud Beaujolais

by Tim York » Wed Jun 25, 2008 12:47 pm

Mark Lipton wrote:
Oswaldo Costa wrote:
Based on my extremely restricted sample, your Morgon may be optimal right now, but I am not a good source, since I usually pass on beaujolais (I know I shouldn't...). Let us know if you do open it!


I am not sure how wise it is to compare Kevin's Morgon to your wine, Oswaldo. If I infer correctly, yours is a Beaujolais Primeur (aka Beaujolais Nouveau), which has a very different life expectancy than a Morgon Cotes de Puy. Someone more knowledgeable than myself my correct that impression, but that's how I see it.

Mark Lipton


Morgon and Moulin-à-Vent have the reputation of ageing much better than other Beaujolais. About 10 years ago I was offered a Morgon 1978 which was very sturdy and good but had become much more Burgundian than Beaujolais in style. Precise longevity will depend on the producer's methods.
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Oswaldo Costa

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Re: WTN: Vissoux and Perroud Beaujolais

by Oswaldo Costa » Wed Jun 25, 2008 3:40 pm

Mark Lipton wrote:
Oswaldo Costa wrote:
Based on my extremely restricted sample, your Morgon may be optimal right now, but I am not a good source, since I usually pass on beaujolais (I know I shouldn't...). Let us know if you do open it!


I am not sure how wise it is to compare Kevin's Morgon to your wine, Oswaldo. If I infer correctly, yours is a Beaujolais Primeur (aka Beaujolais Nouveau), which has a very different life expectancy than a Morgon Cotes de Puy. Someone more knowledgeable than myself my correct that impression, but that's how I see it.

Mark Lipton


I was comparing the 2001 Morgon to the 2001 Brouilly, which seemed optimal on Monday night...
"I went on a rigorous diet that eliminated alcohol, fat and sugar. In two weeks, I lost 14 days." Tim Maia, Brazilian singer-songwriter.
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Re: WTN: Vissoux and Perroud Beaujolais

by Mark Lipton » Wed Jun 25, 2008 3:48 pm

Oswaldo Costa wrote:
I was comparing the 2001 Morgon to the 2001 Brouilly, which seemed optimal on Monday night...


Oops! Of course. Still, I expect a longer lifetime from a Morgon, especially from the lieu-dit CdP, but it isn't as stark as I was thinking. Good point.

Mark Lipton

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