It was my in-laws’ 50th wedding anniversary, and me, my wife and my brother in law treated them to one of our finest restaurants here in Boston. The wine list was studded with land-mines and was generally quite pricey, but I think we managed to find a few gems without stepping on any mines or going broke. These are brief impressions, since I didn’t feel right for some reason whipping out my tasting notebook on this occasion.
N.V. Bollinger Champagne Brut Special Cuvee. This was a fine choice for a heartfelt round of congratulatory toasts. Dark berried, with a touch of smoke, citrus and some rich sourdough yeastiness. It comes across as a touch masculine, with relatively full body. It doesn’t have a huge amount of cut or raciness to it, but it exudes just enough energy to come across as fresh and celebratory.
1999 Comte Armand Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru Blanc. Wow, this is intriguing stuff. The nose is just laced with different aspects of hard minerality, exotic citrus skin oils, brass and leafy forest greenery. In the mouth, it is oily-textured and chock full of earthy tones, fine pear and apple fruits, dark honey and mica minerality. The acidity is in check, though this is more chiseled than creamy. The finish shows a hint of browning pear and apple skin, but exudes character and earthy restraint. We could not have chosen better.
1997 Kalin Cellars Pinot Noir Cuvee DD Sonoma County. Waaaaay at the back of the wine list, on like page 40, we came across this little nugget tucked in at the bottom of the page. Having recently been introduced to this producer via Joe Perry’s 1986 Chardonnay Potter Valley, I was intrigued and just went ahead and ordered it for the table. Again, very good choice. Everybody simply loved this wine. There is no way that I or any of us would have said anything other than “Burgundy” if served this blind. The bouquet is wonderfully earthy, with all kinds of sous bois characteristics like mushrooms, moss, dirt and pine needles to go with fresh red fruits and minerals. On the palate, it is seamless with perfectly resolved tannins and gorgeous balance throughout, medium weight and a lovely elegant mouthfeel. I loved this and I think it is a recent release, so ought be around if I only knew where to look! I really have to get some Kalin wines into my own cellar.
2001 Château Rabaud-Promis Sauternes. This is young, but quite pleasant for drinking now, offering aromas of orange peel, apricot, peach pit and vanilla bean. In the mouth, it has a nice botrytis cream aspect to the flavor profile, along with some candied tropical fruits and apricot flavors. It is not too sugary sweet. This ought to improve with a few more years in bottle to bring out more complexity and palate length.
I'll be 90 if my wife and I are lucky enough to make it to our 50th anniversary--I can only hope we'll be as happy and healthy and as my in-laws when that day comes (and able to enjoy some good food and great wines!).
-Michael
