1999 Hirtzberger, Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Honivogl:
This is aging at a glacial pace but it is profound wine; floral on the nose with cracked pepper and grüner smells; intense flavors but wound very tightly – still there is a precision here; cream soda without the sweetness, depth in its crisp fruit flavors, crystalline structure/acidity, honeyed textures, immense concentration – this wine is one of the most impressive white wines I have encountered and it is barely out of diapers. One I set aside for my daughter.
2006 Qupé, Syrah:
For basic, bottom-end syrah, this is good. Alluring plum/cherry aromas accented with earth and new leather scents; very pure in the mouth as it highlights the elements of the nose and expands into layers of each; perhaps just a touch sweet but the wine seems to catch itself before it dives over the edge into syrup; delineated, medium length finish. For $17, really hard to beat.
2006 Do Ferreiro, Albariño Cepas Vellas:
Some wines are the essence of their variety/AOC/type – here is one of them – if you ever want to know what albariño should taste like, this is the gold standard; the nose is fresh and cool, sea air, minerality, light spice and fruit tones; the palate is richer and rounder than the nose implies with solid fruit and spice elements that are accented in layered/fleeting/tempting ways by salt, brine, mineral, fresh air, tonic water and earth – the whole is far greater than the sum of its parts; balanced, sumptuous, sitting-on-the-shore-of-the-Atlantic-and-reveling-in-your-senses powerful. We had it with a warm chic pea salad and it carried us away. ¡Impresionante!
2002 Chidaine, Montlouis Les Choisilles:
100% quince on the nose, powerful, singular and resonant; not as simple in the mouth but quite intense, deep flavors, tangy accents, good minerality and outstanding length. What’s not to like?
(Aside: I like a fair number of CA wines but I find that many if not most of them are lacking something. I have tried to identify it; call it place, or terroir; or character – I am lost for words so, for the moment, let me call it essence.
This wine lacks essence. It is good wine, maybe very good but there is little here that will bring me back. Like the Chablis of Fevre; something is just not there. Technical wines that meet all the scoring criteria and yet are lost to my heart.
And there it is – to my heart.
Sometimes it’s personal and nothing more.)
Best, Jim