WTN: Wines with Peking Duck (Germany, France, Spain, US)

Last night I met two of my favorite NYC winegeeks (and one lovely wife'o'geek) at the midtown Peking Duck House for dinner. A good dinner, good to great wines, and great company.

We started with the 2001 Muller-Catoir Haardter Herrenletten Riesling Spatlese, and continued with it through the salt and pepper shrimp. Nose of citrus and flowers, broad on the palate but with that racy 2001 acidity. I know this was supposed to be the beginning on an off-period for M-C, but you can't tell it from this bottle. Red fruits, lime, and peaches, a kind of chalky minerality, this has a long way to go but is tasty now. A-/B+

Good as it was, not even close to Riesling of the Night. With Grand Marnier shrimp, the 2004 Donnhoff Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Goldkapsel Auslese. OMFG. Infanticide, but this is great wine, and fantastic now. A stunning combination of citrus (grapefruit and orange zest), Ranier cherries, and intense minerally notes. Changes and develops throughout evening. A brilliant match with the Grand Marnier (kudos to Matt for suggesting) with the orange zest notes magnified and complementing. Apricot notes, lots of slate, endless finish. Powerful but as light on its feet as a ballerina, a Gene Kelly of a wne. Even so young this is a total wow wine. A

Hard act to follow. We switched to reds with the Peking duck.

1993 Michel Lafarge "Vendanges Selectionnees" Volnay
I brought this because I thought a village wine would be totally open by now, but this needs more time. Nose of red berries and earth, but initially a bit flat on palate. Opens through evening, best is a glass on train on way home (I carried leftovers). Still a bit of tannin, plenty of bright acids. We'll see if it helld overnight when I get home tonight, but that last glass was a B+

1996 Contino "Vina del Olivo" Rioja Reserva
I've heard rumblings that a lot of modern '96 Riojas were dying an early death, but this seems to be holding ok to me. Vanilla, spice, cherry and raspberry. There is oak but not overwhelming, maybe a little tobacco. The one thing that dampens my enthusiasm is a kind of dual herb blend- some dill and some oregano-ish green combine in a not so attractive way. Decent, but my least favorite of evening. B-

Last dish was a beef with black bean, with 2 more reds:
1983 Ducru-Beaucaillou (St Julien)
Before we got to this Arv asked if I preferred the '83 Gruaud or the '83 Ducru, I've always liked the Gruaud better. But I'm not sure that my previous bottle of the Ducru have been pristine. This one showed quite well. Soft, friendly. approachable. Nice midweight with black fruit and a little graphite and cedar. Very nice wine. B+/A-

1997 Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon
Dark fruit (blackberries), ripe without being overly sweet. Framed by ripe/silky tannins, big wine with good texture. A little more brightness would help, this was better by itself than with food. Some smoke, not quite as long as I would have expected based on attack. B

Good night with good people.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
 
(edited to correct vintage on Donnhoff)

Dale, thanks for the great notes. The Donnhoff description makes me want to go out and get some tonight.

It sounds like both peking duck wines were showing young. I am always on the lookout for wines to go with that dish--were those decent pairings? Maybe not so much a more modern-styled Rioja?

Seems like a lot of '83 Bdx notes recently--I guess a lot of folks are noticing that they are in a good spot for drinking right now in many cases. Sounds like Ducru fits that description.

-Michael

[David M. Bueker]

Dale,

Nice notes. I'm very jealous.

A couple of things:

2001 was the last year that Hans-Gunter Schwarz was at Catoir, and was one of his two best-ever vintages, so no beginning of a down period there (until 2002).

Do you have any idea of the AP number on the Donnhoff auslese? As you know he uses gold capsules on all his Hermannshohle (and Brucke) auslesen, so I'm honestly curious as to which one you tasted. I own both versions.

Michael,
I like duck and Burgundy, and this was no exception. Hoisin sauce isn't really a wine flatterer, of course. But I'd go back to this place, armed with Burgundy (or maybe a not so heavy Rhone, or Barbaresco) again. Had some Peking duck with rose Champagne once, that went well.

I've been a big fan of '83s. As 82s soared, they were comparative bargains (especially maybe in Margaux). But prices soared on the '83s in last 3 years.

David,
I guess I misremembered or was misinformed. My M-C epiphanies were 1998, and thought I was told he retired after 1999 or 2000 vintage.

Sorry I didn't note AP number (and didn't know all were GK). Maybe Matt will see and can check, think he has other bottles.

Man, your notes are way better than mine.