WTN: 2004 Albert Morot Beaune Bressandes

I was feeling a bit mean for slamming the 88 and 93 Morot Beaunes that Chambers Street was generous enough to pour last Friday, particularly since Dale and others suggested they just needed time to open up. So, in my infinite and self-serving kindness towards the house that Morot built, last night I opened the first of a few half bottles of 04 Bressandes that I have in the cellar in the hope of fueling a more generous review. It did not disappoint.

2004 Albert Morot Beaune Bressandes Premier Cru 13% 375ml
I opened this three hours before dinner, and since it was clearly aromatic, I didn't decant or anything, just left the bottle open. Peculiar shade of brownish ruby tinged with caramel in the glass. Rich and complex nose of sage, underbush and oak vanillin. Whiff of stemminess. I like it! First impressions upon tasting are rich caramel, medium to full bodied, requring just a touch more unctuousness to be superb (glycerin, anyone?). Long finish. Refreshing acidity grip, sweet, smoky, beautiful fruit. How sad that it is only a half bottle, which Marcia and I finish in no time. Love it! Just ordered a few full bottles, though they will, of course, taste completely different, such is the elusive nature of our beast.

Felix, try to find one of these, in half bottle, of course...

2004 Albert Morot Beaune Bressandes Premier Cru 13% 375ml
I opened this three hours before dinner, and since it was clearly aromatic, I didn't decant or anything, just left the bottle open. Peculiar shade of brownish ruby tinged with caramel in the glass. Rich and complex nose of sage, underbush and oak vanillin. Whiff of stemminess. I like it! First impressions upon tasting are rich caramel, medium to full bodied, requring just a touch more unctuousness to be superb (glycerin, anyone?). Long finish. Refreshing acidity grip, sweet, smoky, beautiful fruit....

Sounds like fun. But some interesting descriptors in your note.

"Brown color..caramel...oak vanillin..glycerin...smoky."

Sounds both advanced and rich for 04. Plus what role is the oak playing here?

I'm not very familiar with Morot's style.

The oak seems to be playing a perfect supporting role here, giving some (but not too much) aromatics and adding some tannin to that provided by the grape skins. I can't tell how much of the tannin is from oak and how of it is from skin (and there may be some tannin from stems, as there was a whiff of stemminess). Though the wine is young, the tannin feels integrated. Of course, development in half bottle is different...

The oak seems to be playing a perfect supporting role here, giving some (but not too much) aromatics and adding some tannin to that provided by the grape skins. I can't tell how much of the tannin is from oak and how of it is from skin (and there may be some tannin from stems, as there was a whiff of stemminess). Though the wine is young, the tannin feels integrated. Of course, development in half bottle is different...

Aha. Hey, it may be young, but if it's integrated and ready to drink, I guess it's just that much easier for you to find some enjoyment!

I usually don't buy half bottles, but I may think about it..

[David M. Bueker]

I usually don't buy half bottles, but I may think about it.

I buy almost as many as I can lay my hands on. There have been some nice 2005 Burgs in 375s. They might actually be ready to drink in my lifetime.

I buy almost as many as I can lay my hands on. There have been some nice 2005 Burgs in 375s. They might actually be ready to drink in my lifetime.

It is a good point. Of wines that are really good, I usually want more than a half bottle when I'm dining at home. But, this could also be a useful strategy to pair with 375s of sweet riesling, as I don't usually open more than one 750 per night when dining at home.