2004 Anselmi, Capitel Croce:
This is oak aged Soave and although it is good wine and not overwhelmed by the wood, for me it tastes dull; I really don’t think garganega takes well to oak. (Pieropan’s, La Rocca may be an exception to that rule but it doesn’t seem to be every vintage.) Maybe this will work for some but the freshness is missing for me. Give me this producer’s Capitel Foscarino (single vineyard, in stainless), every time.
2005 Dom. Vissoux, Moulin à Vent Les Deux Roches:
Open and generous (which was not expected) with deep, pure scents and flavors, medium weight, texturally like worsted wool and long. Has a distinct mustard note in the nose but the palate is fruit-rich, mineral accented and layered. The mineral element here is different from most wines; it seems richer and kind of meaty – an odd way to describe it, I know, but that’s the impression it leaves. Still showing quite young but arresting in every way.
2006 Emilio Rojo, Ribeiro (blanco):
As complex a nose and palate as any wine in my cellar; unique character that is sort of honeyed mango/lemon meets mineral/salty acidity, delineated in the mouth, substantial but balanced and lots bright accents lead to an exceptionally long finish. I do not use the word unique carelessly here; a real find for people who demand something singular and delicious. About $40, available almost nowhere but worth both the price and the search.
Best, Jim
