Sometimes, Asimov is a learning experience. His recent column on the merits of red wine that is served very cold made an impression.
2002 Clos Roche Blanche, Gamay:
The geranium nose is beaten back and it’s mostly light fruit scents; really nice in the mouth with crisp acidity backing fresh fruit and mineral flavors; medium length. Being refrigerator cold made the difference; I like this wine now whereas, at cellar temperature, not so much.
Speaking of learning, I thank Claude Kolm for introducing me to the wines of Aubert de Villaine (no, not DRC) from the Côte Chalonnaise:
2005 de Villaine, Bourgogne La Digoine:
A feminine wine but a female who does four hours of pilates a day and only eats one meal; lovely clear scents of cherry and Burgundy; elegant but intense fruit with good complexity and a grace that is hard to describe but easy to love; fine length. Still young but utterly pure and fabulous.
2005 de Villaine, Mercury Les Montots:
The masculine version from this house with a gamey aroma and a meaty texture, even more complex than the preceding wine but less ready to drink with some unresolved tannin and a slightly disjointed finish. Even so, one of the best pinots I’ve had this year.
The first wine was $32 and the second $38; I can’t think of any better pinot noir wines at that price. And these have a future in the cellar – there isn’t a doubt about that. If you can remember only one name in Burgundy, remember this one.
Best, Jim
