I spent the weekend at a friend’s house in Orlândia, a small (pop. 40,000) town in the interior of the state of São Paulo surrounded by sugarcane farms. Her husband is a former mayor of the city and enjoyed showing Marcia and me what there is to see. They have a lovely modernist house with a chilly pool where we drank a few good wines that my friend had pilfered from her doting father’s excellent cellar in anticipation of our visit. Before I get to those in a separate post I want to report on the all-American line-up of wine and cheese that I brought with me to Orlândia for them to taste on the 4th of July:
2006 Ridge Santa Cruz Mountains Chardonnay Monte Bello 14.6%
I wanted a classic California chardonnay to represent American whites, but not the over-the-top kind that inspired the ABC movement. From descriptions I had read, this seemed like just the ticket. Very fragrant, with a fair amount of butter on the nose. For a moment there I feared the worst, but the oak turned out to be quite Meursault-like, with excellent acid/fruit balance in the mouth, powerful without betraying the high alcohol level. Very tasty and very fresh, this was the table’s WOTN. Tasted with Cypress Grove Humboldt Fog (pasteurized goat), an excellent combination.
2003 Edmunds St. John Syrah San Luis Obispo County Bassetti Vineyard 13.3%
Since many on this board like EJS, I was curious to try some, and picked this up on my most recent trip to New York. Attractive cocoa and oak vanilla nose, for some reason the word ethereal kept flashing across the internal teleprompter. Blackcurrant and pepper notes appear in the mouth, with fine tannins. Young but already showing well, putting in a good case for the message boarders’ yeah against the professional critics’ nay. Tasted with Haystack Mountain Red Cloud (raw goat), pretty stinky, like an American Époisses.
2000 Philip Togni Napa Valley Cabernet (no alcohol level indication on label)
As an example of Napa cabernet, this did a good job. Blackberry and cloves on the nose, powerful and lush in the mouth. Focused, almost monolithic, like a smooth and well-executed velvet punch. Long finish. Not complex, but pleasing. Tasted with Goot Essa Mountain Valley Sharp Cheddar (pasteurized cow, 3 yrs old).
1997 Ridge Monte Bello 12.9%
A blend of 85% cabernet sauvignon, 8% merlot, 4% petit verdot, 3% cabernet franc. Lovely blackberry, cassis, chocolate and oak vanilla nose. Beautiful weight and consistency in the mouth, with soft, well-integrated tannins. Lovely wine, very Bordeaux-like. Tasted with Cowgirl Creamery Red Hawk (pasteurized 2/3 Holstein, 1/3 Jersey cow), the table’s favorite cheese of the evening.
2004 Turley Wine Cellars Alban Vineyard Roussane 8.5%
Subdued botrytis nose, very syrupy, with insufficient acidity, some tartness, peach and apricot flavors. Strange mix of unctuous and dilute. Before tasting, I announced that this was made by one the country’s premier winemakers, but this is surely among her least distinguished efforts. Tasted with Point Reyes Original Blue (raw Holstein cow) and molasses, excellent.
A very satisfying way to celebrate Independence Day and raise a toast to my American friends.
