by Oswaldo Costa » Mon Jul 07, 2008 3:39 pm
On the two other evenings I spent in Orlândia this long weekend (described in my post re: 4th of July tasting of American wine and cheese), we drank an eclectic group of wines, including two stellar 1990 Bordeauxs:
2004 Simon Bize Bourgogne Blanc
Served blind, but the lovely caramel nose was a clear sign of white burgundy. Somewhat disappointing in the mouth, a bit dilute, becoming increasingly so with time. Citric notes, a hint of persimmon, tart finish, not recommended.
2006 Livio Felluga Pinot Grigio
Floral and mineral nose, good acid/fruit balance, classic pinot grigio peach flavors. Excellent with brie. Needs more bite, but quite pleasant.
1990 Chateau Figeac St. Émilion
Awesome nose of naphthalene, wet leaves, shoemaker’s glue (!) and oak. Velvety in the mouth, with cloves, cassis, and tar. Tannins still vibrant but smooth. Has years ahead of it, but delivering tremendous pleasure and a lovely cornucopia of flavors. Though not a prototypical Bordeaux (no cedar or lead pencil notes), this served as a powerful reminder of how Bordeaux remains the gold standard, no matter how much and how frequently I seek relief from its monotony elsewhere. Quite wonderful.
2003 Chateau Meyney St. Estephe 13%
Rich nose of cedar and plum, rich fruit, dusky tannins, good acidity. Drinking very well, with only a touch of excessive sweetness perhaps betraying the year and marring otherwise perfect drinkability. Very good, excellent QPR, and highly recommended for current drinking.
1990 Chateau Lynch-Bages Pauillac 12.5%
Young and brawny nose, lots of tar, plum, alcohol, and wet earth. Fruit is vibrant and sweet, but with a strangely dilute mid-palate and a shorter finish than I would have expected. The tar note becomes stronger as the wine evolves in the glass, becoming slightly off-putting. While this is mature, perhaps it needs a few more years to reach magic territory. As it was yesterday, it was completely overshadowed by the Figeac.
"I went on a rigorous diet that eliminated alcohol, fat and sugar. In two weeks, I lost 14 days." Tim Maia, Brazilian singer-songwriter.