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WTN: Loire plus one US chenin

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Bill Buitenhuys

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WTN: Loire plus one US chenin

by Bill Buitenhuys » Wed Jul 09, 2008 10:29 am

Doing some posting catchup over the past month:

2004 Domaine Richou Coteaux de l'Aubance La Séléction (Loire) $17 Rich, creamy, honeyed lemon curd with the faintest hint of botrytis. It’s sweet but not overtly so with enough acidity to balance. This was a really nice match with hot spicy thai green curry.

2007 Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc Viognier (Central Valley) Richly flavored with sweet tropical fruit and lemongrass, noticeable acidity but softer than I normally like. Not a lot of complexity or depth but tonight I just wanted a refreshing companion to our restaurant meal and this worked fine. Most of the time I want to listen to King Crimson, but sometimes you have to put on The B-52’s.

2006 Huët Vouvray Sec Le Haut-Lieu (Loire) $30 Very clean, young, lithe chenin. It’s a bit closed aromatically but the flavor and depth are quite engaging, surprisingly so actually. Lots of primary waxy lemon and apple, a light hint of flowers, with sec-tendre level rs. There is the usual mineral core, solid acidic crunch, and wonderfully tasty length but doesn’t have the overall structural elegance and balance of ’05 or ’02. I’ll tuck a few away but these are very enjoyable now.

2006 Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie Clos des Briords (Loire) $13 This may be the most lush and most accessible vintage of Briords that I’ve tried. It started out very fruit forward and became more exceedingly granite structured with air some few hours later. I can’t stress enough how delicious this wine is and is the proverbial steal at $13. Served with grilled, shell-on shrimp (coated in oil, breadcrumbs, lots of black pepper and lemon) and simply grilled diver scallops. Life is good.
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Michael Malinoski

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Re: WTN: Loire plus one US chenin

by Michael Malinoski » Wed Jul 09, 2008 12:40 pm

Bill, great notes! I think you've helped me decide to open a 2006 Clos des Briords tonight.

-Michael
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Dale Williams

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Re: WTN: Loire plus one US chenin

by Dale Williams » Wed Jul 09, 2008 3:00 pm

thanks for notes. I agree the '06 Briords is more approachable than most vintages.
I used to love the Pine Ridge CB/V - it was about $5=6 no so long ago. Then it leaped to $10 over maybe 2 vintages; I stopped buying. It hasn't gone up much since, other things have, I should revisit.
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Bill Buitenhuys

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Re: WTN: Loire plus one US chenin

by Bill Buitenhuys » Wed Jul 09, 2008 5:05 pm

I used to love the Pine Ridge CB/V - it was about $5=6 no so long ago
It was $28 on a restaurant list filled with lots of CA travesties. I just got a couple of bottles for $10.50 and it sure seems worth that to me.
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Bob Henrick

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Re: WTN: Loire plus one US chenin

by Bob Henrick » Wed Jul 09, 2008 5:10 pm

Bill Buitenhuys wrote:truncated
2006 Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie Clos des Briords (Loire) $13 This may be the most lush and most accessible vintage of Briords that I’ve tried. It started out very fruit forward and became more exceedingly granite structured with air some few hours later. I can’t stress enough how delicious this wine is and is the proverbial steal at $13. Served with grilled, shell-on shrimp (coated in oil, breadcrumbs, lots of black pepper and lemon) and simply grilled diver scallops. Life is good.


Bill, this is a Dressner wine, correct? Well speaking from Kentucky, guess where they are not sold. Lucky I have the URL for CSW isn't it. I got a case of the 05, and will see if they have any 06 left. How was 07 in the region?
Bob Henrick
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Bill Buitenhuys

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Re: WTN: Loire plus one US chenin

by Bill Buitenhuys » Wed Jul 09, 2008 5:38 pm

Bill, this is a Dressner wine, correct?
who? :P

How was 07 in the region?
I haven't tasted anything from '07 Loire yet but SFJoe's report should give you plenty of guidance.
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Rahsaan

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Re: WTN: Loire plus one US chenin

by Rahsaan » Wed Jul 09, 2008 6:17 pm

Bob Henrick wrote:How was 07 in the region?


More 'classic' (i.e. less ripe) than 05 and 06.
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: Loire plus one US chenin

by David M. Bueker » Wed Jul 09, 2008 6:53 pm

Glad to hear the 2006 Huet is good. Of course I have no cellar space. Care to fly back east & help me clear some room?
Decisions are made by those who show up
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Charles Weiss

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Re: WTN: Loire plus one US chenin

by Charles Weiss » Wed Jul 09, 2008 7:04 pm

Hey Bill, you still drinking that Loire crap? :P

I thought the 2006 Briords was shockingly forward, round and gulpable.
So much so that I only bought a few bottles instead of putting a case away.

You may have been there for a cull party in which I trotted out a carefully sequestered Pine Ridge Chenin of about 10 yrs of age to test the hypothesis that if you age a decent California Chenin long enough it will taste like a good Vouvray --- WRONG!

Best,
Charles
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Bill Buitenhuys

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Re: WTN: Loire plus one US chenin

by Bill Buitenhuys » Wed Jul 09, 2008 7:59 pm

Of course I have no cellar space
There is always off-site storage. :P And yes, I'd love to come back and help you make room.
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Re: WTN: Loire plus one US chenin

by Bill Buitenhuys » Wed Jul 09, 2008 8:02 pm

I only bought a few bottles instead of putting a case away.
I'm going to put a couple of bottles away but I'm sure I'll plow through the rest of my '06's.

I trotted out a carefully sequestered Pine Ridge Chenin of about 10 yrs
Now that was a perfect cull, that should have been culled years ago! :D
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Re: WTN: Loire plus one US chenin

by Jenise » Thu Jul 10, 2008 3:10 pm

Bill, good to see a note from you again. Say, our monthly Vancouver dinner group did Loire chenins last month where a lot of beautifully aged bottles showed me what a huge mistake I've made not buying and putting these wines aside a long time ago. Sounds like you've already figured out not to make the same mistake.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Bill Buitenhuys

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Re: WTN: Loire plus one US chenin

by Bill Buitenhuys » Thu Jul 10, 2008 3:29 pm

Bill, good to see a note from you again.
Thanks, Jenise. It's good to be posting again. Regarding aging chenin, I'm a little late to the party too and only started hoarding them over the past few years. I find that grape to be so versatile, both in style and for food pairings. Love it.

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