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WTN: All white, Spain, Germany, Alsace, ESJ PG

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Bill Buitenhuys

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WTN: All white, Spain, Germany, Alsace, ESJ PG

by Bill Buitenhuys » Wed Jul 09, 2008 10:32 am

2007 Ameztoi Getariako Txakolina (Pais Vasco) $17 Bright, crisp, lime grapefruit sea-spray with a hint of spritz. Plenty of acid, plenty of flavor. This wine is enormously fun.

N.V. Bodegas Almocadén Fino Paquiro (Jerez-Xérès-Sherry) $27 Lot 06/07 Deep and dark aromatics that are in playful opposition to the light wisp of sea breeze salinity and raw almond flavors that cleanse the palate.. Nice match with assorted tapas: marcona almonds, manchego and membrillo, and endive boats w/hard goat cheese and pimento. Not so great with coriander-infused green and Lucques olives.


2006 Vollenweider Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Spätlese (Mosel) $26 Fairly shy red apple aromatics leading to a full out, stone fruit onslaught in the mouth. This wine is brimming with youthful sweet peach and mango flavors, has significant weight, and robust baby fat sweetness. The bittersweet orange acidity and slate core doesn’t peek out for a good ten seconds after sipping and the mingling tropical fruit finish continues for some time afterwards. This is extremely tasty now but I’m going to give it 7-10 years before opening the next one.

2002 Schloss Schönborn Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Erstes Gewächs (Rheingau) $4 #038 03 I really enjoy a good erstes/grosses gewachs for the flavor profile of Germany with a finish and dry crispness of Alsace. This wine followed that recipe with perfumed, ripe white peach nose, petrol, apricot and slate. When the rich, somewhat unctuous mouthfeel hits my brain is telling me to start to expect some residual sugar to kick in but instead it’s utterly clean and dry with some spicy cloves and lemon zest acidity. This is a solid wine and a good match with grilled pork tenderloin and white bean puree. The flavors aren’t as penetrating as I’d like nor is it all that complex but at $4 on closeout I have no complaints.


2004 Josmeyer Gewürztraminer Les Folastries (Alsace) $38 I’m an unabashed fan of Josmeyer riesling but this was my first of his gewurz. This is quite an elegant and seamless wine. Heavenly doses of lychee, orange blossom, green tea, and lemon. A medium bodied mid-palate that shows just the slightest hint of sweetness from the ripe tropical fruit flavors and enough acidity to balance without being harsh, flowing into a wonderfully dry, spicy, tobacco finish. Paired especially well with Tom Kah and PEI mussels w/lemongrass.

2005 Lucien Albrecht Pinot Gris Cuvée Romanus (Alsace) $4 Albrecht’s entry level pinot gris makes for a fun summer sipper. Moderately sweet entry of ripe, spiced pear and yellow peach, rich palate, modest acidity, and a dry, somewhat short, smoky finish. Nothing too serious but plenty of taste. Another $4 closeout bargin. Nomacorc closure.

2006 Edmunds St. John Pinot Gris Witters Vineyard (El Dorado County) $14.50 This has all the smoky, ripe pear and floral tones but much more of a mineral core than past bottles. It’s even better on day two. Yum. Not a great match with corn chowder though.
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JC (NC)

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Re: WTN: All white, Spain, Germany, Alsace, ESJ PG

by JC (NC) » Wed Jul 09, 2008 12:18 pm

Thanks to a wine-loving friend from Massachusetts, I have a small vertical of the Vollenweider Goldgrube and will probably open the 2005 next week and work backwards from there.
Erbacher Marcobrunn has been one of my favorite Rheingau wines since I lived and worked in Germany. Not sure I've had one in the dry style however.
You mentioned the Nomacorc closure. They are produced here in North Carolina and I have met some of the firm's representatives when they sponsor Triangle Wine Experience events.
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Michael Malinoski

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Re: WTN: All white, Spain, Germany, Alsace, ESJ PG

by Michael Malinoski » Wed Jul 09, 2008 12:29 pm

Bill, thanks for the great notes--lots of good selections there.

I read with great interest your note on the '06 Vollenweider WG Spatlese. I just saw it on the shelf at Gordon's for $31 last week and decided to sleep on picking some up. While it sounds young on the nose, it sounds immensely promising--especially with that flavor profile. I pretty much expected this to be the case, but good to have some trusted evidence... Thanks!

Michael
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Re: WTN: All white, Spain, Germany, Alsace, ESJ PG

by David M. Bueker » Wed Jul 09, 2008 3:37 pm

Great line up Bill. It's got to be tough finding reasons for opening red wine in Arizona right now.

All my 2006 Vollenweiders are in for a long sleep.
Decisions are made by those who show up
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Bill Buitenhuys

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Re: WTN: All white, Spain, Germany, Alsace, ESJ PG

by Bill Buitenhuys » Wed Jul 09, 2008 4:58 pm

Thanks to a wine-loving friend from Massachusetts, I have a small vertical of the Vollenweider Goldgrube and will probably open the 2005 next week and work backwards from there.
I'd love to hear what you find with your vertical, Jane. I was pleasantly surprised with this one and am glad I put in an order for '07 (also with a wine-loving friend from MA).
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Bill Buitenhuys

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Re: WTN: All white, Spain, Germany, Alsace, ESJ PG

by Bill Buitenhuys » Wed Jul 09, 2008 5:00 pm

It's got to be tough finding reasons for opening red wine in Arizona right now.
I did open a cheapy crianza to go with a steak and a young Turley on the 4th weekend. Other than that it's been non-stop whites.

All my 2006 Vollenweiders are in for a long sleep.
The rest of mine now as well, but I couldn't resist trying one.
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Re: WTN: All white, Spain, Germany, Alsace, ESJ PG

by Bill Buitenhuys » Wed Jul 09, 2008 5:02 pm

it sounds immensely promising--especially with that flavor profile.
Indeed it is, Michael. The '07's won't show up until late Sept (if it's anything like last years delivery).

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