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WTN: Three recent tastes

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Ryan M

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WTN: Three recent tastes

by Ryan M » Thu Jul 10, 2008 12:12 pm

Hello All,

Well, here goes my first TN post in our new home. Just three nice wines I tasted in the past month, but hadn't gotten around to posting on Strat's Place. Anybody who hasn't had Nero di Troia before should seek it out - lovely little grape; and I can never say enough about how much I love Louis Martini Cabs.

Louis M Martini, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Vallley Reserve 2004
My second tasting, and no need to change a word of my previous note (see below) except to say that this bottle, at a store tasting, had plenty of time to breathe, and was showing even better, confirming my earlier hopes for what it was capable of. Love it! Martini Cabs are always good values, and at around $20, this is a impressive value even for them. Exceptional (90 - 93) [6/14/08]
Louis M Martini, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Reserve 2004
Backwards and only suggesting the dark cherry and cassis that will emerge with time, with a touch of slightly savory herbs toward the finish, and an almost leathery earthiness. The herbs even suggest a bit of Italian influence, but still it proudly asserts its Napa provenance. Backwards and very old world in style, but even at this stage showing the promise of tremendous elegance to come. In short. a classic Martini Cabernet. This should age well for 15 more years, and very possibly longer (might be interesting to see what it's like in 20 years), but needs 5 or maybe even 10 years to resolve all its elements - but then it will sing! Excellent (87 - 90), but will be Exceptional (90 - 93) with time [2/1/08]

Delmas, Blanquette de Limoux, Brut NV
On sale at a discount store because of its age I suspect: I was concerned to see a bit of seepage, and the cork did not expand as champagne corks usually do. But the wine was still fresh and lively, and I dare say even improved, the extra bottle age giving it a touch of the sort of depth one finds in good Champagne. Citrus upfront, followed by apple, perhaps a touch of pear, then honeydew melon, and a lightly nutty finish. Obviously a quality sparkler. Went very nicely with Shrimp Scampi. Purchased for $7, and at that price an unbeatable value for a quality sparkler. At it's normal retail of around $20, not unreasonable, but a bit harder to recommend. Very Good / Excellent (86 - 88) [6/15/08]

Vini Coppa d'Oro, Nero di Troia, Puglia IGT NV
My first experience with this grape, and I am impressed! A clear but deep ruby in color. Heady nose of black cherry, but with perfumey floral notes. On the palate, deep black cherry upfront, with perhaps a touch of blueberry/blackberry, and overtones of plum, followed by nectarine, orange rind and floral notes, before a generous finish of spice. Medium-full in body. Lovely stuff. Unique - almost like a cross of Syrah and Montepulciano (the grape) - it has some of Syrah's concentration, headiness, and structure, but overlayed with Montepulciano's gracefull, delightful, and high-toned fruit. This is just the sort of delightful little wine you might find at a cafe in Italy - very fruit friendly, with a softness to it but also a rich depth. In fact, this is a fair challenger for Chianti. [Oddly enough, I have had one other grape in some ways quite similar to this: a hybrid called St. Vincent, which is grown in the Midwest of the US.] Fantastic little table wine for everyday drinking with Italian food. And it's even good chilled. I got it on sale for $5 - what it goes for elsewhere I do not know, but by far the best wine I've ever had for the price. Excellent (87 - 90). [6/21/08]
Last edited by Ryan M on Thu Jul 10, 2008 2:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: WTN: Three recent tastes

by Jenise » Thu Jul 10, 2008 12:22 pm

Ryan, I recently purchased a Delmas Limoux for $13, that I didn't realize until after I got it home was actually a vintage wine, 2001. Haven't opened it yet, but based on your note I should expect good things.

Martini cabs--I've not had the Reserve, but a few years ago I tasted both the Sonoma and Napa entry level Martini cabs (prolly vintage 02 or 03) and was surprised to find them a lot fatter than I remember Martini cabs being, leading me to suspect that under Gallo ownership the wines' overall style is being modernized. Have you been drinking Martini cabs for a long time, and have you noted a difference?
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Re: WTN: Three recent tastes

by David M. Bueker » Thu Jul 10, 2008 12:37 pm

I've noticed a difference, but then most of the Martini Cabs I had tried previously were 30+ years old, so they had ample opportunity to shed some baby fat.
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Re: WTN: Three recent tastes

by Ryan M » Thu Jul 10, 2008 1:19 pm

Hello Jenise and David,

I'll be interested to hear how the vintage Delmas turns out - I have reason to beleive the NV I had wasn't a whole lot younger than the 2001 you have, so I'd expect very god things, and it should be a fascinating experience at th very least - being a scientist, the evolution of wine captivates me, and though I'm still a it of a 'young pup,' I have for a while now had a preferance for mature wines. Regarding Martini, the first one I tasted was a 1981 Napa single vineyard (that was in 2004), and later that year I tasted the 2001 Sonoma (which I still have another bottle of in the cellar) - to my palate, the difference between them was only the age - at the core they were both very much in Martini's gracefull, understaded, old-world style. Now, I agree that the 2003 and 2004 Napa Reserves had a lot more extract and richness in a sort of modern style, but I suspect that a lot of that is just baby fat - although I liked the combination of Napa youth underlayed with old-world style. But compared to the other high-class Cali Cabs I've had recently - the 2003 Silver Oak Alexander Valley and the 2000 Burgess Napa Vintage Selection for example - Martini is still strikingly distinct.

Best Wishes,
Ryan
"The sun, with all those planets revolving about it and dependent on it, can still ripen a bunch of grapes as if it had nothing else to do"
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Re: WTN: Three recent tastes

by Bill Buitenhuys » Thu Jul 10, 2008 2:08 pm

Welcome to WLDG, Ryan, and thanks for the tip on nero di troia.
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Re: WTN: Three recent tastes

by Ryan M » Thu Jul 10, 2008 2:17 pm

Thanks Bill, and you are most welcome! It should be noted that Nero di Troia is also known as Uva di Troia - in fact I think the later name might be more common.
"The sun, with all those planets revolving about it and dependent on it, can still ripen a bunch of grapes as if it had nothing else to do"
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Re: WTN: Three recent tastes

by SteveEdmunds » Thu Jul 10, 2008 2:20 pm

David M. Bueker wrote:I've noticed a difference, but then most of the Martini Cabs I had tried previously were 30+ years old, so they had ample opportunity to shed some baby fat.

David; I think the difference is that the old Martini Cabs never had any baby fat. The idea that Cabernet could even HAVE baby fat is a recent development. It used to be all muscle and bone.
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Re: WTN: Three recent tastes

by Ryan M » Thu Jul 10, 2008 3:01 pm

I will agree that there has been a bit of a shift. The 2001 Sonoma Cab I had would have completed fermentation and been in barrels aging before Gallo's purchase, so it in principle might reflect the older style - much like the 1981 I had not too long before it. The 2003 and 2004 Napa Reserves do have a more modern richness to them, but I think the old Martini elegance is still there, and I think there's a chance they might taste quite a bit like the older Martini Cabs given another 15 - 20 years. But I love them nonetheless!
"The sun, with all those planets revolving about it and dependent on it, can still ripen a bunch of grapes as if it had nothing else to do"
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Re: WTN: Three recent tastes

by Brian K Miller » Thu Jul 10, 2008 8:49 pm

thanks for the notes, ryan. Have to admit I was quite impressed by the 2002 Monte Rosso Cab! (Except for the price) :)
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Re: WTN: Three recent tastes

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Fri Jul 11, 2008 1:28 am

Yeah welcome and interesting notes. Look forward in the future to your wine impressions!
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Re: WTN: Three recent tastes

by Ryan M » Tue Jul 15, 2008 2:28 pm

Bob Parsons Alberta. wrote:Yeah welcome and interesting notes. Look forward in the future to your wine impressions!


Thanks Bob - glad you like them!

A follow up to my notes above: in the past few days I've tasted a second bottle of the Delmas, with consistent notes, and two additional bottles of the Nero di Troia, with highly consistent notes. Also, the Nero di Troia went fabulously with tuna steaks in a soy, ginger, citrus marinade.
"The sun, with all those planets revolving about it and dependent on it, can still ripen a bunch of grapes as if it had nothing else to do"
Galileo Galilei

(avatar: me next to the WIYN 3.5 meter telescope at Kitt Peak National Observatory)

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