WTNs: Familia Zuccardi Dinner

The Brazilian importer of Zuccardi wines held a dinner last night at a local restaurant. Present was José Alberto Zuccardi, director and son of the founder. I found Señor Zuccardi charming and unaffected, and for once I heard a winemaker acknowledge that wine is not just about terroir (yadda yadda yadda) but also about the people who make it. In this case, the people factor manifests itself through unusual blends, some including viognier, which does as well in the Santa Rosa Valley as chardonnay does in Tupungato, according to Señor Zuccardi. Many of the wines use a mix of oak and stainless steel, instead of just one or the other. On the whole, I think the results are average, but between the lines there are some interesting experiences to be had:

N.V. Santa Julia Extra Brut
An unusual sparkler, made from viognier, chardonnay and pinot noir. Very aromatic and expressive nose, mingling rust, peach, citrus, basil and mint. Good mouthfeel, nice balance, with additional notes of almonds and yeast. Good acidity and fruit. Not for everyone, but a refreshing change.

2007 Zuccardi Series A Chardonnay
Actually a blend of 50% chardonnay and 50% viognier. Interesting nose of peach, citrus, almonds and burnt sugar. First taste is buttery, but turns flabby, as the acidity is insufficient to hold the reasonably nice fruit. Needs work. Served with salad covered with brie, honey and almonds.

2006 Zuccardi Series A Bonarda
100% Bonarda. Nose of cherry and oak vanilla. Low tannins, medicinal in a cough syrup kind of way. Simple, straightforward, short finish. I complain politely to Señor Zuccardi, who says it is still young, and will become more harmonic in two years. Served with steak covered with taleggio.

2004 Zuccardi Malamado
The most unusual and interesting wine of the evening, and the only one I would suggest you seek out, if nothing more, in the name of science. Malamado means "badly loved" but is actually a pun on Mal (for malbec) and amado (loved). This is made in the same way as Port, but uses malbec instead of touriga nacional. Served chilled on Señor Zuccardi's instructions because of the 19% alcohol, the nose is pure kirsch. This is the closest I have come, in a wine, to drinking bitter and velvety chocolate. Delicious for the (literally) chocaholic (which I am not). Excessively single-minded to be much more than a curio, but still a fascinating curio. Served with chocolate cake (highly redundant)

Kudos to Señor Zuccardi for innovation.

[Robin Garr]

Thanks for the report, Oswaldo. It's particularly interesting to read a report on South American wines from a South American perspective.

[David M. Bueker]

So I don't know Zuccardi. Is this Chile or Argentina?

So I don't know Zuccardi. Is this Chile or Argentina?

They are located in Maipú, in Mendoza. Their top varietal wines, the Q Series, are decent and sell for less than $20 in the US. The A Series, featured in the dinner, is mid level. They also make organic wines under the label Vida Organica and have a budget line called Santa Julia which I have found pretty mediocre. All are, I believe, available in the US.

Don't know if there is more than one importer but here is some more info: Adam Sager, Winesellers Ltd., Skokie, IL; http://www.familiazuccardi.com. Some very good values from Zuccardi along with some interesting varietals. They are trying everything......

mark

I cannot speak highly enough of José Alberto Zuccardi and his son Sebastian promises to follow in father's footsteps as an all-round nice guy and thoughtful wine producer. When Argentinian wines had no-one in the UK to speak up for them as they'd closed their generic office and had no PR representation at all, José Alberto helped several prominent journalists set up trips to the region and was almost a one-man spokesman for the region, being very generous to his "competitor" wineries for the good of Mendoza/Argentina. He has a canny knack of employing really good export staff too who do everything to help.

Over several visits to Argentina in the past decade and many tastings in London, this winery - who've been present on the UK market for a decade or so - have stood out for their very good value wines, their innovation (they experiment endlessly with different grape varieties and wine styles) and their generosity as people. As a wholly Argentinian owned family winery they weathered the economic crisis working hard on exports but also looking after the home market as they always have. They are also pioneering in terms of wine tourism - being closer than some wineries to the centre of Mendoza, they are well placed to attract visitors and have created a really wonderful visitor centre which has art exhibitions and concerts sometimes - there's also a lovely little restaurant (I think you have to book to visit and to eat).

No, they are not producing the greatest wines from Argentina, however, they do take care of the environment and their people. They were amongst the first (perhaps the first) to bottle Tempranillo in Argentina (and there is more Tempranillo in Argentina than anywhere other than Spain - about 4,500 hectares if I remember rightly) - before it was just thrown into the blends for jug wines. A couple of years ago, I attended a really interesting tasting hosted by José Alberto and English wine writer Charles Metcalfe (a particular specialist in Iberian wines) for the wine trade/press comparing blind pairs of their top Tempranillo Q with a Spanish Tempranillo and going back 8 or 10 years. The Q was of course changing as techniques/knowledge improved but it showed good ageing potential and showed as the best wine in several pairings even with a careful choice of Spanish Tempranillo.

As well as Tempranillo (especially Q), I've enjoyed their Malbec Q, a red blend called Magna, Reserve Viognier-Chardonnay and some weird and wonderful reds like Caladoc among many other wines - they have a very large range including most recently some interesting sparklers pioneered by Sebastian and do a whacky late harvest Torrontes.

Do look out for them - I think they are quite widely available in the USA and the rest of the world and José Alberto (and recently Sebastian) travel the world often.

Thanks, Wink, for the excellent testimonial! I look forward to visiting them in Mendoza soon.

Oswaldo, thanks for the Zuccardi notes and history. The first Santa Julia Viognier I tasted was very good but recent vintages have been very average. SJ is the only line available up here.

Oswaldo, thanks for the Zuccardi notes and history. The first Santa Julia Viognier I tasted was very good but recent vintages have been very average. SJ is the only line available up here.

I was turned off by Zuccardi in that in Mendoza all of the McDonalds billboards advertise that they serve Santa Julia. I guess you 'gotta do what you gotta do', but McWine is where I draw the line.

Cheers,
Bill

Zuccardi has one wine above the Q Series... their Z Cuvee - a blend of Malbec and Tempranillo.

Son Sebastian has a small side thing going with Sparkling wines.... Alma 4.