WTN: Bunch of Clos Vougeot, w/pink port and Sauternes

It was Drew's turn to host SOBER, but he did it at Mark's home due to space/baby reasons. A lovely low-humidity evening, we gathered and admired Nancy's gardening while sipping Prosecco. Once everyone was there we sat down to a run through some wines from Clos de Vougeot. Thanks to Drew and Mark for arranging an informative and fun tasting.

1985 Mongeard-Mugneret Clos Vougeot
Quite brown when poured, but color brightened with a little time. Very sweet nose with caramel and herbs, a touch of sourness/gaminess on palate. I'm not wild about this at first, but it picks up steam and last sip before next flight is better. At end of the night much more refined and complete. Good, not great. B

1985 Daniel Rion Clos Vougeot
Younger color, nose of spicy licorice, nice lively fresh fruit. I like this better at first, but doesn't progress much through evening. B

(there was a very tasty chicken tortilla soup served about here)

1995 Gros Frere & Souer "Musigni" Clos de Vougeot
I admit to some prejudice here, not sure how much it affected my take. I bought some mixed Gros Frere "Musigni" a few years ago, and have been consistently disappointed. This kept my streak going. Very mature for 13 year old Grand Cru, round, bland cherries, a little woody note. A thought heavy and dull. Others liked more than I. C+

1991 Faiveley Clos de Vougeot -corked, massively corked.

1999 Roberty Arnoux Clos de Vougeot
Initially served quite cool, as a replacement for the corked bottle. Good acids, spice and black cherry, young, structured. I held some for a while, a little smoky as it warmed but not showing a huge amount. B/B+

1990 Hudelot-Noellat Clos de Vougeot
Ah, this is more like it. Nose of earth, ferric minerals, blood and smoke. On the palate a fleshy plate of warm (but not roasted) fruit- plums and black cherries. Nice structure, enough acids to balance, good length. Gets a chocolate edge at end, a bit exotic. Very nice and my WOTN for now. A-

(along came some lamb chops and a potato/carrot/parsnip mash)
1996 Hudelot-Noellat Clos de Vougeot
Brisk acids, bright rapsberry and cherry. Well structured, clean, tasty, but needs time. B+

1997 Hudelot-Noellat Clos de Vougeot
My immediate reaction is that it's rounder and less bright than the '96. Mark gets some TCA, and once I notice it I can't get past it. A bit of discussion about how much one can tell about a lightly corked wine, personally once I get the taint it really distracts me from any meaningful thoughts.

1999 Hudelot-Noellat Clos de Vougeot
Now this is a young beauty. Earthy, darker fruits, very balanced acids. I really like those, though I don't get as much minerality as the '90 & '96. Mark feels those elements will come out more with time. Lovely, long, and evolves nicely with time. I'm guessing this will be great in 10-20 years. A-

(some cheeses made an appearance, with a very ripe Camembert and some tasty harder cheeses)

2000 Hudelot-Noellat Clos de Vougeot
Another 2000 that's drinking beautifully now. Midweight, not the depth and concentration of the '90/'96/'99, but a forward balanced wine with lovely red fruit and distinct soil notes. B+

1999 Girardin Clos de Vougeot
Ripe and modern, showing some vanillin oak. Not particularly big, but I'm very surprised to hear someone else describe as thin. Balanced acidity, very light tannic note. B

Some quite good wines here, though I'm not sure I have any clearer idea of a CdV terroir signature. All in all, the lesson was again producer, producer, producer. To me the Hudelot-Noellats all showed that Clos de Vougeot can truly be GC wine, if not top-tier GC. Thanks to Drew and Mark (who raided his cellar a couple of time for replacements for the corked bottles)

There were a couple of late pours of sweeter stuff. My palate was probably shot at this point even though I was spitting/dumping, but I didn't care for either:

2000 Le Dauphin de Guiraud (Sauternes)
I'm assuming second wine of Guiraud. Sweet, canned peaches and apricots, some botrytis, short. Others liked more than I did. B-/C+

Croft Pink PortoYep, rosé port. In an Ott-esque bottle. Reminds me of white Zinfandel with a dollop of brandy. Sweet, empty, hot. Actually label says serve cold or on ice, maybe better not at room temp. C

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
 

Pink Port??? Yikes - sounds like something Franzia would cook up. Must have been interesting for the experience if nothing else.

All in all, the lesson was again producer, producer, producer. To me the Hudelot-Noellats all showed that Clos de Vougeot can truly be GC wine, if not top-tier GC. 

Out of curiosity (and perhaps out of stupidity), is there any consensus about who has some of the 'better' plots of CV? Or who makes the best CV?

Mike, apparently this is openly marketing as a port for women. Make of that what you will.

Out of curiosity , is there any consensus about who has some of the 'better' plots of CV? Or who makes the best CV?

I'm no expert, but will still throw out my opinions (all based on conversation and some tasting, I've never explored the vineyard itself)
Well, some would say that the Gros Frere "Musigni " was one of the better plots. Not based on what I tasted. It's complicated by the fact that some producers maybe have long stretches, with some upper and some lower slope. They might sell off the lower slope to a negociant.

I think most people would single Meo out as the top name in CdV. Next level maybe Georges Mugneret. Followed closely by Grivot, Anne Gros, Hudelot-Noellat. Then Mongeard-Mugneret, Faiveley, Drouhin. I'm sure I'm forgetting someone important.

I think most people would single Meo out as the top name in CdV. Next level maybe Georges Mugneret. Followed closely by Grivot, Anne Gros, Hudelot-Noellat. Then Mongeard-Mugneret, Faiveley, Drouhin. I'm sure I'm forgetting someone important.

Interesting, thanks. I guess some of the evaluation of these differences depends on stylistic preferences, but glad to see that Hudelot-Noellat is known for having good holdings. I've liked their wines in the past and kept them on mental file as a producer to purchase. Even better is that from what I can tell their prices are not crazy. Although that seems to be changing all the time in Burgundy.

Dale,

Maybe you had to be there, but reading your notes, your scores, and noting that you consider yourself an easy grader, this doesn't speak very well for Clos de Vougeot.

Or did I miss something?

Best regards,
Alex R.

Well, you missed the part in my disclaimer where I said no consistency.
I probably tend to grade a bit harder at SOBER meetings, because the wines are so good overall. To give a little context that you might relate to, some Bdx I've scored A- at SOBER meetings include 1983 LMHB, 1970 Figeac, 1996 Pape Clement; some of the B+ include 1970 Montrose, 1996 Pontet-Canet, 1979 Lafleur, Bs include '78 and '75 Haut Brion. So other than the Gros Frere not so shabby, for the least respected Grand Cru other than maybe Corton and Echezeaux.
The important part of my disclaimer isn't the easy grader part, but " I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency"

I MAY have the chance to sample a '96 Mortet CdV tonight at a restaurant in Raleigh (if it hasn't already been consumed.) It was "Wine Spectator's" Burgundy of the vintage supposedly. Will report back if I do get to Raleigh and do sample some of the wines that are normally on their reserve wine list. In the meantime, thanks for the notes, Dale.