WTN: The BEST Pinot Noir in Alsace?

Marcel Deiss Burlenberg Pinot Noir 2003 -Bergheim, Alsace

I freely admit that I am more forgiving of Alsatian Pinot Noir than most, but I’m also a great lover of wines from the Cote de Nuits and I must say that this is the most spectacular bottle of Pinot Noir that I’ve ever tasted from Alsace. I wouldn’t just chalk that up to the hot 2003 vintage though, Deiss has long been loved for the vine and I’ve tasted great wines from him and many others in recent vintages.

It is hard not to compare this to some Cru of Burgundy. This is a very complete wine and misses the mark on the rather green or over-done versions of Alsatian Pinot noir that inevitably come to market depending on vintage. I would place this in the Morey-St. Denis camp in that the acidity and tannin are both substantial, but the fruit neither reaches the jab of Gevery, nor the warm bear-hug of Vosne (Chambolle is completely out.), but dark black cherry, sweet sticky tar, sweaty saddle and black licorice are clear. There is an air of Deiss density, but it only adds to the texture. Wonderful Pinot Noir-Alsace or not. 14% alc. $46


Cheers,
Bill

Isn't this another demonstration that good Pinot Noir is migrating northwards? There also are reports of increasingly good PNs in Germany.

Sounds nice although I have to admit that if I'm going to spend $46 I might rather look for star village or even premier cru Burgundy, but perhaps you would say that the quality and complexity here eclipse most of what is available at that price in Burgundy? (When I go outside of Burgundy I am more likely to buy $20ish pinot noir from the Jura or the Loire for juicy uncomplicated - and cheaper- fun).

Also, if this is the best, who would be some of your pinot noir runners-up in Alsace?

Rahsaan, I would buy this in a second over most comparably priced village wines from Burgundy. Especially in the '05-'06 vintages, $40-50 doesn't seem to go very far in the Cotes de Nuits.

As for other producers to check out, I've liked Mure, Barmes-Buecher makes 2(VV and Reserve), Weinbachs Reserve Pinot Noir is great, some wines, sometimes(!) from cave de Ribeauville (though they seem to be taking a dive lately), and Wolfberger can make good Pinot Noir.

Cheers,
Bill

Tim, I agree with you. Northern Pinot Noir is on! There are good and great Pinot Noir now being produced in the Loire, Switzerland makes super Pinot Noir, I've had a very good Pinot Noir from Liechtenstein, Austria certainly has its stars and Hofstaetter in Alto Adige is making wonderful Pinot Noir. I've contended that Germany has made a few excellent Pinot Noir for almost a decade (at least!) How about the BeNeLux?

Cheers,
Bill

Thanks. Weinbach is interesting, don't think I've ever seen that.

And the Zenmaster asked "can there be a "best" wine anywhere?" seeing the folly of the ways of the world.

Alex R;

How about the BeNeLux?

Bill, there is a Pinot Noir produced at the Genoels-Elderen estate ( http://www.wijnkasteel.com/uk_00_overview.html ) near Tongeren in Belgium's eastern Flanders. I have tasted it once and found it lively, refreshing and decently bodied and might have bought some but for its price, > €20, i.e. more than much good Côte Chalonnaise. This estate produces more than creditable Chardonnay, also highly priced.

Pinot Noir used to be planted on south facing slopes along the Meuse and Sambre valleys but was wiped out by phylloxera and not replanted because then economically marginal. There is now an attempt to revive this and an AOC Côtes de Sambre et Meuse has been created by the Walloon regional government. Here is the appellation decree - http://vignes.be/a_o_c__belges.htm , sorry French only. I haven't heard yet about any creditable performers.

Pinot Noir is also produced in the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg's Moselle valley. I haven't yet had one and on my last trip was put off by a sommelier who warned me than they tend to be light bodied. Next time I go there, I will do a bit of a survey; prices tend to be reasonable.

I don't know about the situation in the Netherlands but there should be suitable slopes in their part of the Meuse (Maas) valley round Maastricht.

And the Zenmaster asked "can there be a "best" wine anywhere?" seeing the folly of the ways of the world.

Alex R;

You know Alex, after reading my subject line again I ALMOST changed it. I agree that 'Best' is nonsense, but I figured the question mark was a sufficient disclaimer. When I first opened this wine I was walking around the house gushing to my wife about it and 'Best' was a word I kept using.

Cheers,
Bill

How about the BeNeLux?

Bill, there is a Pinot Noir produced at the Genoels-Elderen estate ( http://www.wijnkasteel.com/uk_00_overview.html ) near Tongeren in Belgium's eastern Flanders.

Thank You Tim, It seems like Tom Stevenson may also be a fan.