by Tim York » Sun Jul 13, 2008 4:28 pm
Domaine de Trévallon – AOC Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence Les Baux (then) - 1989 – Alc. 12% - ( € 43,50 for 2005) - made from Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah roughly 50/50.
I have read complaints about Trévallon in other threads, particularly about brett; also comparisons with Château Musar. It is true that owner Eloi Dürrbach likes living dangerously with brett and VA and without the blessing of the appellation authorities (now), but in this particular bottle everything comes into an exciting balance even though I suspect the presence of both those controversial elements.
C: Medium depth garnet with some bricking.
N: Beautifully integrated and brightly complex aromas with raspberry, cherry, plum, garrigue herbs, varnish, autumnal forest floor and wet leather all blended together with no elements dominant.
P: Not spectacularly big but replaying the aromas from the nose in a harmoniously elegant way showing both brightness and generous depth, velvety mouth-feel, firm but resolved structure and classical shape with crescendo towards the finish followed by a long diminuendo as the aromas fade away gently. This is perfect in its way and the best Trévallon which I have ever opened though some of its predecessors were pretty good; I could have drunk another bottle; 18/20+.
Tim York