WTN: 2006 Kruger Rumpf Riesling Kabinett

10.0% alc./vol.; "MD" (medium-dry) on the LCBO sugar rating scale; $19.95 at Vintages.

Bright, crystal-clear pale straw with a notable green glint; lots of carbonation in the glass after pouring. Sweet petroleum on the nose; a bit of hot tar and asphalt and a fruity/pineapple reverberation. Some sulfur too. Tangerines on the entry; piercingly crisp acidity with balancing residual sugar on the mid-palate; very fragrant and tasty Riesling. Good balance all across the palate with the r.s. supportive and fully under control. Tangy/fragrant finish.

This is a great food wine that went well with the pork kebabs, new potatoes and fresh cabbage. Summer's a great time to enjoy these German Rieslings as a change of pace, and with their low alcohol and refreshing near-gulpability, they're most attractive this time of year.

[David M. Bueker]

Sounds tasty, though I wouldn't put any 2006 German kabinetts in the "medium-dry" category.

Just going on "palate feel" alone, I'd say that the descriptor they gave was pretty good: the wine does taste mildly sweet, and there is a look of mild viscosity when 'tis swirled, but the crisp acidity leaves an impression of good balance. Any way they cut it, it's a great, refreshing wine for this time of year.

the crisp acidity leaves an impression of good balance.

I'm not sure exactly what David is getting at (I'm guessing he means the wines are more than medium dry?), but - as we have discussed before - unless you're going by analytical measurements terms like 'sweet' are often used in highly idiosyncratic ways by individual tasters. And let's remember that some TBAs can have crisp acidty that leaves an impression of good balance.

[David M. Bueker]

Let's put it this way - I have not tasted a signle 2006 kabinett that I thought was not over-sweet and candied.