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WTN: Calif Burgs...(long/boring)

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TomHill

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WTN: Calif Burgs...(long/boring)

by TomHill » Tue Jul 15, 2008 1:39 pm

We tasted the other week (7/2/08) Some Calif Burgundies:
1. Charles Smith Wines HolyCow Chard ColumbiaVlly/WashState (13.5%) 2006: Light gold color;
earthy/minerally light vanilla/oak pleasant slightly floral/melony/appley nose; tart some
earthy light minerally clean/apple/nutmeg/Chard light vanilla/oak flavor; med.short bit
earthy/dusty light appley/Chard crisp/clean finish; a pleasant WashState Chard w/ low-key
oak and a good price. $12.00
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2. Nalle Chard HopkinsRanch/RRV (13.7%; http://www.NalleWinery.com) 2006: Med.gold color; ripe peach/
melon/Chard some pencilly/oak light spicy/nutmeg nose; tart lush/rich ripe peach/melon/Chard
light vanilla/pencilly/oak flavor; very long/lingering ripe/peach/melon/Chard light pencilly/
vanilla/oak spicy/nutmeg balanced finish; a lovely Chard in a style that you'd expect from
DougNalle; bit pricey at $38.00
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3. Brewer-Clifton Sta.RitaHills Chard RanchoSantaRosa (15.9%) 2004: Med.gold color; strong
toasty/oak slight herbal rather perfumed/aromatic/very ripe/melony/Chard nose; soft bit hot/
alcoholic very ripe/perfumed/melony/Chard rather vanilla/toasty/oak flavor; long bit alcoholic/
hot very ripe/melony/Chard tropical fruit/mango/peneapple rather toasty/charred/Fr.oak
finish; pretty tasty if a bit over-the-top Chard. $42.00
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4. Brewer-Clifton Sta.RitaHills Chard Melville (14.6%) 2004: Med.gold color; more toasty/charred/
oak ripe/spicy/nutmeg/Chard nose; tart very spicy/nutmeg/cinammon ripe/melony/pear/Chard/
peach more restrained flavor; very long tart rather toasty/charred/oak very spicy/nutmeg melony/
peach/pear/Chard finish; bit more toasty/oak but more balanced & restrained; lovely big
classic StaRitaHills Chard. $45.00
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5. Ojai Chard BienNacidoVnyd/SantaMariaVlly (14.0%) 2006: Med.gold color; some toasty/oak
spicy/melony/Chard fragrant bit minerally/earthy lovely nose; tart slight minerally/earthy
rather toasty/oak ripe/melony/Chard/pear very attractive flavor; med.long tart rather
toasty/oak melony/ripe/pear/Chard finish; fair amount of oak but the fruit behind it to
hold it up; very attractive price at $26.00
_________________
6. Ojai Chard SolomonHillsVnyd/SantaMariaVlly (14.0%; Dijon clones) 2006: Med.dark gold color;
strong floral/aromatic/perfumed/ripe/melony/Chard/peach lovely nose; tart quite floral/
aromatic ripe/melony/Chard/peach light vanilla/oak flavor; very long very floral/aromatic
melony/ripe/Chard/peach light oak finish; levely balance and great aromatics almost like
a Riesling; great buy at $30.00
_________________
7. Ojai Chard SolomonHillsVnyd/SantaMariaVlly SpecialBttlg#1/Dry (6 brls; Botrytis effected;
14%) 2006: Med.dark gold color; very light/toasty/oak some earthy less floral deep/ripe/
melony/Chard slight earthy very interesting some complex nose; softer very light/toasty/oak/
pencilly some earthy slight Sauternes-like/Oz Semillon much less floral//rather melony/Chard
fairly complex flavor; very long light/Chard/melony light earthy very light/toasty/oak
finish; a quite interesting less floral rather exotic rendition of Chard. Well-priced at
$34.00
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8. Nalle PinotNoir HopkinsRanch/RRV (13.8%; http://www.NalleWinery.com) 2006: Light color; pleasant
earthy/dusty some cherry/PN light oak bit spicy nose; light earthy/dusty some pencilly/oak/
vanilla light/bright/cherry/PN flavor; med.long bright/cherry/PN some pencilly/oak finish
w/ light tannins; needs a yr or two; a pretty/pleasant Pinot but a bit pricey at $42.00
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9. DuttonGoldfield PinotNoir DuttonRanch/FreestoneHillVnyd/RRV (13.8%;
http://www.DuttonGoldfield.com) 2005: Med.color; very strong black cherry/PN very spicy light
toasty/oak quite attractive nose; tart strong/black cherry/cherry/PN very spicy/fragrant
light toasty/charred/oak bit earthy flavor; long black cherry/cherry/PN light toasty/oak
finish w/ modest tannins; a rather classic SonomaCoast Pinot w/ lots of spicy character
but pretty overpriced at $58.00
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10. WilliamKnuttel PinotNoir RRV Clone 777 (14.5%; 16 mo in FrenchOak) 2005: Med.color; rather
pencilly/oak somewhat spicy/cherry/PN bright/spicy slight earthy/licorice nose; tart somewhat
hard/tannic rather spicy/cherry/PN bit lean/austere flavor; med.long rather hard/tannic
rather spicy/cherry/PN/cherry pie/nutmeg finish; needs several yrs; a bit lean & tight on
the palate and may develop into something good; seems pretty tight right now; fairly priced
at $35.00
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11. Summerland PinotNoir RanchoSantaRosaVnyd/Sta.RitaHills (14.1%; #0797;
http://www.SummerlandWine.com) 2005: Light color; big/ripe/black cherry/PN bit chocolaty/CherryMash
light toasty/oak nose; tart ripe/black cherry/PN somewhat toasty/charred/oak bit clunky/
earthy/clumsey flavor; med.long toasty/oak ripe/black cherry/PN/chocolaty rather strong
toasty/oak finish w/ some tannins; on the ripe side & a bit clunky; not worth $40.00
_________________
12. Ojai PinotNoir BienNacidoVnyd/SantaMariaVlly (35-yr old vines; 14.0%) 2005: Med.dark color;
strong toasty/oak rather ripe/plummy/black cherry/licorice/PN ripe/lush fairlt fragrant/
perfumed nose; tart very plummy/black cherry/PN/licorice slight floral/violets rather toasty/
charred/oak bit tannic structured flavor; very long ripe/plummy/black cherry/PN/very spicy
light floral fairly toasty/oak some tannic finish; lots of oak but plenty of ripe/plummy/
Pinot fruit to back it up; structured and needs 2-6 yrs. $38.00
_________________
13. Ojai PinotNoir FeCiegaVnyd/SantaRitaHills (14.0%) 2005: Med.dark color; very bright/vibrant/
cherry/black cherry bit earthy/dusty light toasty/oak more elegant/complex quite spicy/floral
nose; tart bit lean/hard very spicy/bright/cherry/black cherry light toasty/oak light earthy
some tannic/structured flavor; very long/lingering tart spicy/cherry/bright/black cherry/PN
light toasty/charred/oak finish w/ some tannins; a tart/firm/structured/nervy cold-climate
Pinot that should age very well for 3-10 yrs. $47.00
_________________
14. Roar PinotNoir SantaLuciaHighlands (14.5%; http://www.RoarWines.com) Gary&Rosella Franscioni/
SantaRosa 2002: Med.color w/ slight bricking; some cedary/pencilly/toasty/oak slight volatile/
perfumed/floral some black cherry/herbal/cherry pie/PN raspberry/framboise/ripe interesting
nose; soft/lush some toasty/pencilly/oak strong black cherry/framboise/PN slight herbal
flavor; long soft/ripe/lush rather black cherry/framboise/PN some pencilly/toasty/oak
finish w/ slight tannins; probably near its peak; still plenty of Pinot fruit but lush &
round on the palate. Larry's mystery.
_____________________________________________________________________________________
And yet another long/boring BloodyPulpit:
1. Ojai Chard: Adam Tolmach doesn't get much buzz about the Chards he makes but they (and his
SauvBlanc) are always one of my must-buys each year. Both of the SolomonHills Chards were
pretty exotic stuff. When he took his Chard from SH, he noted there was a block of Chard
that was hanging & found the owner rejected them because of a slight botrytis infection.
So Adam took the grapes and made this SpecBttlg out of it. It's a pretty interesting rendition
of Chard and only offers hints of the botrytis. He also left some of the grapes out in the
vnyd and made a few barrels of heavy-botrytis Dessert Chard.
_________________
2. Knuttle: BillKnuttle is currently winemaker (now consulting winemaker as he focuses more
on his own and his Ottomino label) at DryCreekVnyd. He was originally winemaker at
Saintsbury and then started his own Tria label (since sold) and then at ChalkHill before
going to DryCreekVnyd and giveing their wines a real boost in quality. This is my first
wine I've tried under his epynomous label. Given his Saintsbury background background, I
was expecting great things of this Pinot. It was not. It's not a bad Pinot and certainly
priced correctly, but it was a bit too lean & eviscerated for my palate.
Tom
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Re: WTN: Calif Burgs...(long/boring)

by AlexR » Tue Jul 15, 2008 3:04 pm

I find that really interesting.
I've seen "California Rhône" wines described, but never before Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs from California called "California Bugundies".

By the way, that remark is ***not**** meant to be condescending

The post heading immediately sent me to open it up!

Also, not once in the long tasting notes covering 16 wines was a comparison made to Burgundy.

Best regards,
Alex R.
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Re: WTN: Calif Burgs...(long/boring)

by JC (NC) » Tue Jul 15, 2008 3:17 pm

I enjoyed a Longoria Pinot Noir from Fe Ciega Vineyard. Ojai sounds worthy of a visit in October if they have a tasting room or are open by appointment.
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Yup...

by TomHill » Tue Jul 15, 2008 3:28 pm

AlexR wrote:I find that really interesting.
I've seen "California Rhône" wines described, but never before Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs from California called "California Bugundies".

Well...to me, it's a sensible way to describe these wines, rather than:
TN: Calif Chardonnay/PinotBlanc/Aligote/PinotNoir/PinotMeunier...(long/boring)
The only problem is that someone may think I'm tasting Calif Burgundy..like Gallo Hearty Burgundy, Franzia Burgundy, BV Special Burgundy (actually...this was quite a good wine when they were making it)...and such and be certain they were "boring".
AlexR wrote:By the way, that remark is ***not**** meant to be condescending

Good, Alex....there are some folks who object to my use of Calif Rhones or Calif Burgs as they find it demeaning of the French originals and that I am implying that these Calif varietals are as good as those wines. Nothing could be farther from the truth. I would never/never imply that a Radio-Coteau Pinot would even begin to hold a candle to a great TonyRodent Bourgogne!! :-)
AlexR wrote: Also, not once in the long tasting notes covering 16 wines was a comparison made to Burgundy..

I'm not adverse to comparing Chards/Pinots to Burgundies..it was just that all of these were pretty Calif in their profiles.
Tom
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Yup....

by TomHill » Tue Jul 15, 2008 3:31 pm

JC (NC) wrote:I enjoyed a Longoria Pinot Noir from Fe Ciega Vineyard. Ojai sounds worthy of a visit in October if they have a tasting room or are open by appointment.


FeCiega vnyd, which is part/all owned by RickLongoria, is a pretty highly-regarded vnyd out in the Western StaRitaHills and some pretty
good wines come out of it.

Ojai does not have a tasting room, but Adam or Fabien are often there by appointment a few days ahead of time.
Tom
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Re: WTN: Calif Burgs...(long/boring)

by JC (NC) » Tue Jul 15, 2008 3:44 pm

Thanks for the info Tom.

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