WTN: What a difference a bottle makes (2nd of HBB)

I've generally liked Plantiers de Haut Brion, the second white of HB, in almost every vintage I've tried (1994, 1999, 2001, 2004). So last year when there was a sale with the 2002 for a good price, I bought a couple. But my first bottle last fall was dominated by oxidative notes, and I couldn't drink more than a glass. Last night I was grilling some swordfish (with leftover salads from night before), and opened my second bottle of 2002 Plantiers de Haut Brion (Pessac-Leognan). What a difference- this was lovely, young, and fresh. A little vanilla and coconut from the oak on the nose, but it seamlessly blends in with the Fuji apple and honeydew fruit. There's also a light aroma of cut grass on the nose. Nice cruiserweight, round honied Semillon notes of apricot and pear, good acidity, very nice wine. Should easily be able to age. Last bottle I wished I hadn't bought two, this bottle I wish I had bought 6. Best white Bordeaux I've had in a while (I don't drink much Bdx blanc), A-

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
 

Dale,

The Big Question is whether this was one and the same wine, i.e., whether the first bottle you did not like would have tasted this same way had you left it.

The question is worth asking because of the stature of the estate, where wild variations of this kind are pretty rare.

Best regards,
Alex R.

Alex,
I think that the cork was the culprit- not TCA, but a faulty seal. Just looked up my note on previous one:
Cookbook suggested Sauvignon Blanc, I partially complied with a blend, the 2002 Plantiers du Haut Brion (Pessac- Leognan). Broad structure, some vanilla and coconut over a citrus fruit base. But there is an annoying nutty/oxidative note, and I think this is a flawed bottle. The cork was dry and cracked as I removed, and I think some air got in this. Really couldn't enjoy, and one glass was plenty. I'll chalk this one up to fate, but if my other bottle shows similarly will take back to retailer for a refund on the second one.

This sound bottle was one that made me wish I drank more white Bordeaux.

Did you get an email I sent you yesterday? I'm trying to determine if my contention that Ch Bourgneuf and Ch. Bourgneuf-Vayron are one and the same. I've always been told they were (and bottles labeled Bourgneuf list Vayron as proprietor) , but have no documentary evidence. I seem to recall you had a reference that listed most of the larger estates, hoping you could confirm (or refute) my belief.

Hi Dale,

Thanks for your reply.
I seem to be having random problems with my mailbox and I'm sorry I did not receive your e-mail.
The surest way to contact me is at aquitrad@yahoo.com

As for your question about Bourgneuf and Bourgneuf-Vayron, I do indeed own Bordeaux and Its Wines (http://www.amazon.fr/Bordeaux-its-wines ... 2902416954) which *normally* clears up a lot of questions like this... but sometimes you have to do a little detective work too.

Château Bourgneuf-Vayron is a 9 hectare estate owned by Xavier Vayron, with Denis Dubourdieu as consulting oenologist.
Château Bourgeneuf (please note the different spelling with an extra "e" - there never was a Ch. Bourgneuf) is listed in the 2004 edition of Bordeaux and Its Wines, but not in the most recent 2007 edition.
I therefore decided to call up the Syndicat Viticole to find out what happened in-between time.
I was informed that Ch. Bourgeneuf no longer exists. It was taken over by the Petit family of Belgium who also own a wine I like very much, Château Tournefeuille in Lalande-de-Pomerol.

My turn now. I have two questions for you (you're welcome to send me a private e-mail if you think it is preferable).

I will be in New York from the 10th to the 19th. Might we get together during that time? I know that Ian Amstad is arranging a tasting of 86s on the 18th of October, and he made noises about get-togethers on the 10th or the 11th. Might you be interested?

Also, do you think it would be worthwhile suggesting an off-line in Boston midweek on WLDG? I don't know the crowd there, and I don't know whether or not people generally eschew wine dinners on weekdays.

Best regards,
Alex R.

Thanks Alex. I THINK that confirms my idea, that bottles labeled "Bourgneuf" (and with Vayron in small print) such as this:
http://www.zachys.com/Default.aspx?Sect ... mNo=136127
are identical estate as Bourgneuf Vayron (I have both labels, they are identical except for one having Vayron in large print on label). It seems at least with older ones that bottles imported by Chateau and Estates were labeled Bourgneuf, and those from other sources Bourgneuf-Vayron.

Ch. de Bourgueneuf is extinct? Someone has the '05 listed on Cellartracker, I'm guessing they meant Bourgneuf.

I'm unclear which month you are in NY? October? We can certainly arrange an offline, one where we don't have to hide bottles under table.

I'd post and give the Boston crowd a try. In NY I'd say most of us PREFER weeknights, as (1) much easier to get corkage deal at a restaurant and (2) easier onfamily obligations.