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WTN: Syrahs Around the World

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Brian K Miller

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WTN: Syrahs Around the World

by Brian K Miller » Sat Jul 19, 2008 1:04 am

Hosted by Back Room Wines in downtown Napa this evening. I was tired after a somewhat hilly (for this fat middle aged guy with more aches and pains than I would like), so I took my time. Plus, it was hard to hurry/gulp a couple of the wines because they were so aromatic.

2006 OGIER Syrah "La Rosine" Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes.

Nice purple color in the glass with a ruby rim. Very attractive nose of cracked black pepper and earth. There is juicy blackberry fruit underneath the cracked pepper. Quite light in texture and structure, doesn't seem to have big tannins and may be lacking a bit in acidity. It is very interesting to drink a wine like this, which seems so light and elegant, when you are used to drinking California wines with 2 more points of alcohol. Solid 90 points, as it reflects a style I like (California and Australia drinkers might find it "thin."

2004 Phoenix Ranch Napa Valley Syrah. Directly northeast of Napa City, near Silverado Country Club below the Atlas Peak appellation.

Nose of juicy plum, very lifted and high acidity. Almost liqueurous and sweet nose, despite the modest for Napa 13.8% abv

The palate was surprisingly attractive, considering the nose. worked much better for me. Bigger tannic structure (despite being two years older), which I don't mind at all. Very, very earthy and lean and savory in character...Cathy Corison is the consulting winemaker for this project, and she seems to like higher acidity in her wines. Maybe 88 for the entire package and 90 for the palate At less than $25, not a bad wine at all!

2006 Domaine des Lises Crozes Hermitage. According to the notes, this is a new project from Maxime Gaillard, son of Alain.

This was one of the most aromatic Syrahs I have ever had (until the end of the evening, that is). Amazing nose of black pepper and herbs...it smelled "purple" to me somehow :P Palate is light, like the first wine, and all about the pepper, with some blackberry underneath. Very smooth and elegant. Absolutely no alcoholic burn. 91 points-great wine.

2006 Palin Limari Valley Chile.

On the nose, very Rhone-like black pepper, blackberry, and herbs, but also something very odd. Am I sensing eucalyptus because I associate Chilean wines with Eucalyptus mint? Palate is similar, but the 14% alcohol is noticeable here on the tip of the tongue and the back of the throat. Certainly interesting, but perhaps just a bit too strange for me. Reminds me of the time I bought my last weird Chilean wine (Domus Aurae) which I ended up hating. 85 points.

2006 Anthill Frams Syrah "Windsor Oaks Vineyard" Russian River Valley.
Dan nailed it "Nose is dark bberry/cherry liqueur" I don't get the black olive or coffeee he found...to me this smells New World to the max. No pepper or garrigue on the palate-this is all about the blackberry fruit and the alcohol is really noticeable. 83 points-just not my style, no flaws, just not something I enjoy that much.

2006 R Wines Shiraz Ebenezer Barossa Valley. Imported by The Grateful Palate exclusively for the American market. :? :roll:

The nose is actually more Rhone-like than the Anthill Farms. Sadly, this low cost Australian exemplifies, to my unskilled palate, the definition of "Blackberry Oak Shake." Plus, the 15.8% abv burns on the throat. The only wine that was unceremonously dumped in the toss-cup. Bleh. No rating. .

Finally-back of the room bottle 2001 Ogier Cote Rotie

Now THIS is a great Syrah (at more than twice the price of the other wines, I guess it should be :) :)) Nose has the wonderful blast of black pepper, with a delicious underpinning of what I am describing as OREGANO. Very smooth and savory. Palate has black pepper again, blackberry fruit, and that elusive savory herb. This wine has some tannic structure in its youth, but it is nonetheless not closed down in any way. SMOOTH SMOOTH SMOOTH. A big boy, a "black wine." May be one of the top ten Syrahs of my limited experience. 94 points??? Not budgeted for a $75 wine this week, so I hope he doesn't sell it. Still...I would not mind having two bottles of the Des Lises instead!
Last edited by Brian K Miller on Mon Jul 21, 2008 2:27 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Cynthia Wenslow

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Re: WTN: Syrahs Around the World

by Cynthia Wenslow » Sat Jul 19, 2008 1:31 am

Thanks for the notes, Brian.

I haven't had any Ogiers that are this young (made by Stephane), but I've loved everything made by Michel that I've had.

I love love love Cote Rotie. :D
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Tim York

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Re: WTN: Syrahs Around the World

by Tim York » Sat Jul 19, 2008 4:05 am

That is a fascinating tasting nicely pointing up the flavour profile changes which happen to Syrah/Shiaz in different terroirs/climates. A few months ago Mike Pollard pointed us towards an interesting article by a New Zealand expert which analyses how the taste of Syrah is affected by ripeness. I repeat the link for those who missed it - http://www.geoffkellywinereviews.co.nz/ ... ticleID=88.

My own heart lies with cool climate Syrah; there are also some good ones in Switzerland.
Tim York
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Bob Hower

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Re: WTN: Syrahs Around the World

by Bob Hower » Sat Jul 19, 2008 11:26 am

Good notes Brian, as always.
You began the post with..."I was tired after a somewhat hilly (for this fat middle aged guy with more aches and pains than I would like), so I took my time."
Just curious, did you ride your bicycle to this event? I believe you mentioned you sometimes did this, and as a bicycle rider myself, I thoroughly approve of this fine combination of worthwhile activities. If you DID ride to it, did you also ride home? Just a bit drunk? And how did those hills feel then? :lol:
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Re: WTN: Syrahs Around the World

by Brian K Miller » Sat Jul 19, 2008 11:30 am

Thanks, Tim. Somehow, some Dry River 2004 ended up in a small wine shop in Yountville, CA. Although it may still be too young, I may be opening it this summer!

As for the Aussie Shiraz, I am still chortling over the "Imported exclusively for the U.S. market" note. Is this really what we drink in this country? :mrgreen:
...(Humans) are unique in our capacity to construct realities at utter odds with reality. Dogs dream and dolphins imagine, but only humans are deluded. –Jacob Bacharach
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Re: WTN: Syrahs Around the World

by Brian K Miller » Sat Jul 19, 2008 11:39 am

Bob Hower wrote:Good notes Brian, as always.
You began the post with..."I was tired after a somewhat hilly (for this fat middle aged guy with more aches and pains than I would like), so I took my time."
Just curious, did you ride your bicycle to this event? I believe you mentioned you sometimes did this, and as a bicycle rider myself, I thoroughly approve of this fine combination of worthwhile activities. If you DID ride to it, did you also ride home? Just a bit drunk? And how did those hills feel then? :lol:


Bob: No. Napa is not that far away from my home in Solano County, but it would be forty miles over some very substanital hills (including a four mile climb of 1200 feet over Mount George). The alternative route, Highway 12, is to be blunt completely unsafe for cycling, (esepcially now when they are doing major construction) although I have observed people on the road. So, I drove and started (and finished) the ride in downtown Napa. :)

I ate cheese and sipped the wines very, very slowly, and they were tasting samples only, so I was ok. The only problem was I was tired after the day.

If I pace myself carefully, I like to combine the activities. First, it is safer to pilot 20 pounds at 15 mph than 3,000 pounds at 55 mph. Second, it makes up for the calories. Pacing is the key! Napa County is marred by heavy traffic in the valley, but has quite good bicycle lanes which are very comfortable.

The other advantage is tasting on bicycle prevents "pity purchases" at eager small wineries where you just do not like the wines. :twisted: Gosh...there was one Rutherford producer that was charging $125 for cabernets that I found quite mediocre. Sorry...can't carry wine on my bicycle. :twisted:
...(Humans) are unique in our capacity to construct realities at utter odds with reality. Dogs dream and dolphins imagine, but only humans are deluded. –Jacob Bacharach
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Re: WTN: Syrahs Around the World

by Bob Hower » Sat Jul 19, 2008 12:42 pm

Sorry...can't carry wine on my bicycle.


They make trailers for bicycles ya know..... :)

I stopped buying wine on a motorcycle when I got home one day and opened my hard bag and saw precious wine pouring out onto the ground, the result of a bad packing job. :cry:
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Re: WTN: Syrahs Around the World

by Cynthia Wenslow » Sat Jul 19, 2008 1:49 pm

Brian K Miller wrote: The alternative route, Highway 12, is to be blunt completely unsafe for cycling, (esepcially now when they are doing major construction) although I have observed people on the road.


Brian, I was out there visiting a family member last week and went over Jameson Canyon for the first time. (Had to do something in Fairfield after lunch at Mustard's.) People are not very safe drivers on that road! I can't imagine the peril of riding a bike there, and this was only in the middle of the day on a weekday. It must be a mess on the weekends when you get people on it that have been tasting and are unfamiliar with the route! :(
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Re: WTN: Syrahs Around the World

by BMcKenney » Sat Jul 19, 2008 7:55 pm

I had a 2006 Domaine des Lises Crozes. I found it to be a bit more modern. Or maybe a lot more modern, than his dads Crozes. It's been a while but I thought it was drinking really well now. Kind of a sexy wine. It was a little pricey for me where I live so I didn't buy more, but I'd like to try more in the future if I can find them.

Bryan
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Re: WTN: Syrahs Around the World

by Brian K Miller » Sun Jul 20, 2008 1:04 am

BMcKenney wrote:I had a 2006 Domaine des Lises Crozes. I found it to be a bit more modern. Or maybe a lot more modern, than his dads Crozes. It's been a while but I thought it was drinking really well now. Kind of a sexy wine. It was a little pricey for me where I live so I didn't buy more, but I'd like to try more in the future if I can find them.

Bryan


Bryan: I am more familiar with California syrahs that are much closer to the Anthill in character (not all of them, of course. Sequoia Grove is surprisingly Rhone-like in their Stagecoach Vineyard Syrah). When you associate "Syrah" with blackberry fruit and 14.5% alcohol, even a "modern" Northern Rhone is refreshingly different :)

Maybe the modernity reflects the ease of drinkability at such a young age?

In rethinking my notes, I might raise the first Ogier to 90 points because it, like the Des Lises, simply smells so delicious!
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Re: WTN: Syrahs Around the World

by Vincent Sapone » Sun Jul 20, 2008 9:46 am

Being unimpressed with most syrah form the U.S. I had bought (a few years ago) some Penfolds Koonunga Hill 2002 and recently opened it to be disappointed that it tasted like a CA. syrah and was bordering on being alcohol-hot. Fortunately, the shiraz-cabernet blend of the same year and make was much better but still unremarkable.
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Re: WTN: Syrahs Around the World

by Jenise » Sun Jul 20, 2008 2:12 pm

Vincent Sapone wrote:Being unimpressed with most syrah form the U.S. I had bought (a few years ago) some Penfolds Koonunga Hill 2002 and recently opened it to be disappointed that it tasted like a CA. syrah and was bordering on being alcohol-hot. Fortunately, the shiraz-cabernet blend of the same year and make was much better but still unremarkable.


Vincent, if I understand what you didn't like about California syrah, I'm surprised that you sought relief in Australian shiraz. To my tastes, California is about halfway between France at the lean-restrained end and Australia at the big-ripe-extracted other end.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov

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