We had some folks over to celebrate Bastille Day with a theme of, you guessed it, French wines!
My brief notes:
Aperitif:
1. NV Yves Ruffin Brut Champagne Magnum - Nobody had ever of this producer - the bottle indicated 1er cru Avenay. This was, to my palate, leaning towards a blanc de blanc style - light, crisp, a touch yeasty - fully mature. Well appreciated by this crowd.
2. 96 Gimmonet Champagne Grand Cru - Bigger & richer than the above - excellent concentration, balance and length. If I had any I'd drink it soonish, but it should hold for a while for those that like them older.
3. 96 Jean-Marc Boillot Corton Charlemagne - Very dark Sauternes-like color - DOA - Yet another disappointment from this much-heralded white Burgundy vintage - 'nuff said.
4. 01 Chapoutier Chante Alouette Hermitage Blanc - This is drinking nicely - a bit floral and nicely rounded out - really quite ready but will hold for a bit. I'm drinking the last two bottles this year.
5. 83 Willm Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Gebuwiller - Wow! Quite dark. Excellent nose with more secondary charicteristics than overt fruit. Quite rich and full on the palate still. Good long finish. I'd have never aged this for so long, but it worked!
Set 1:
6. 95 La Mondotte St. Emelion - A bit foursquare. Decent fruit, not tannin in evidence, but not terribly complex.
7. 89 Clerc Milon - Some brett intermingled with fruit on the nose - too much for one taster, but just right for me. Good depth and concentration. More echoes of earthy brett on the finish. Excellent.
8. 89 Pichon Baron - Initial whiff of corkiness seems to pass quickly and not return. Deep layers of Cabernet. Tastes too good to be corked. Very nice.
9. 88 Smith Haut Lafite - Kind of flat on both nose and palate. This may be an off bottle or it might just be past it's prime.
10. 86 Pavillon Rouge Margaux - Corked - no debate on this one.
Interlude:
11. 83 Vieux Telegraphe - What's a nice Rhone like you doing in a lineup like this? Really bad looking totally wet cork, but I managed to get it out in one piece. Wow! Great nose! Just a little funk. Lots of fruit. Quite long. Some thought it the best of the night to this point. From a passive basement cellar.
The final set:
12. 82 Branaire Ducru - Nice bouquet. Full and rich. A wine to sniff and sip and ponder. Good length. Pure pleasure. Drink soon. Passively cellared in 3 basements since 1985.
13. 82 Leoville Barton - More powerful than the above. Deeper and fuller, but every bit as elegant. Rich, powerful and very long. Complex. The favorite of many. Could evolve further but may lose fruit. Passively cellared in 3 basements since 1985.
14. 81 Leoville Las Cases - Decidely Cabernet. The most structured of the 3. Not as full, but somehow, deeper. The favorite of some - those with a peference for "classic" Bordeaux. Great balance & length. Drinks well now. From a passive basement cellar.
Digestif:
15. 89 Coutet Barsac - Very dark gold. Classic apricot-laden nose. Rich & full and quite long. Disappeared quickly!
Thanks for reading & we'll see some of you at MoCool !
Dave Guimond