Thanks for all the replies and suggestions. Currently in Lisbon, and thought I would do a 'semi-live' blog of the good and the bad, rather than a detailed report at the end, so here goes-
Day 1: We are staying at a great apartment just above the Rossio, details here -
http://www.visitingportugal.com . The owners have a Google map of recommended restaurants, see
http://visitingportugal.typepad.com/blo ... auran.html . So far we checked out the local Café Tigelinha for lunch - nothing fancy but good food and excellent value for money. Crammed with locals.
Later in the day we visited the Port Wine Institute, atmosphere reminscent of somebody's great-aunt's "good" living room, long list of ports by the glass, most of the clientele are tourists wondering in clutching their guide books open to the page that this place is mentioned. We had two decent ports by the glass, but did not linger...
Evening time a nondescript restaurant south of the Rossio, bacalhau prepared two different ways, both inedible. I think we will pass on this stringy fish of terrible consistency for the remainder of this trip...
More to come