This wine dinner coincided with the first sultry evening this summer and it is a tribute to the quality of the red wines that none seemed heavy and over-alcoholic in spite of their temperatures’ becoming well above ideal. Indeed, unusually for such occasions, all of the bottles were of a very high standard although the last was not in my preferred style.
Ca’ del Bosco Franciacorta Cuvée Annamaria Clementi 1996 joins a Ferrari and a mature Vouvray from Foreau as my best ever bubbly from outside Champagne; it was crisply complex yet full with elegance and length; 17/20.
Schiopetto Collio Tocai Friulano 2004 was vigorous with crisp mineral acidity and a complex aromatic palette from which I picked out apple and peach notes; an outstanding white 17/20.
Gaja Barbaresco 1996 immediately conquered my prejudices about the man (I recall a tasting where he strutted around with Napoleonic pomposity and allowed no spitting). The shape on the palate was linear and elegant, the body was medium weight, the flavours were complex with bright red fruit, markedly mineral acidity and tar hints on the finish and formed an integrated whole. Still quite young with more development potential, I guess; 17.5/20 with + potential.
Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico Riserva 1997 was more ingratiating and generous but, for me, less characterful and complex than the more rigorous preceding Barbaresco and the two following wines from Fèlsina; very fine though and could have been the wine of the night in other company; 16.5/20.
Fèlsina Beradenga Chianti Classico Riserva “Rancia” 1990 showed more backbone and tang than the Fonterutoli with flavourful strands of complex dark fruit, tar and even agreeable hints of rubber and oil. On the other hand it seemed a little diffuse and lacking in focus. Nevertheless bold and classy in somewhat rustic vein; 16.5/20+.
Fèlsina Beradenga “Fontalloro” IGT 1995 showed what the preceding Rancia lacked. Maybe slightly smaller but equally complex and somewhat brighter with focus, integration, length and elegance; 17.5/20++.
Primosic Collio Picolit 2000 showed power, richness and complexity but for me was marred by harsh wood tannins on the finish. Needs a lot more time to integrate, IMHO. Germaine liked it much more than I did; 15/20 now for me.
Many thanks to Daniela and Jérôme for their hospitality and for the delicious food.
