by Oswaldo Costa » Wed Jul 30, 2008 8:05 am
The modesty of this thread’s title obscures the fact that this was one of the finest wine dinners I have ever had the pleasure of attending. Unassisted, Dale pulled out all the stops for his friends, doing us great honor. Hit by Murphy’s Law before and (evidently after) the tasting, Dale nevertheless was able to pull together a memorable feast for the senses.
2007 Clos Roche Blanche Sauvignon #2 (Touraine) 12.5% stainless steel
Grass, honey and a whiff of anis, with good mouth feel, lemony acidity, and nice balance. A touch on the light side, but good QPR.
2006 Clos Roche Blanche Sauvignon #5 (Touraine) 13.8% oak
Also grassy and lemony, with more pronounced anis. Much more body than the preceding. Hard to tell how much of this is due to greater alcohol, greater oxygenation from oak, or an extra year in the bottle. Most likely due to the alcohol, of which I feel there is too much.
2006 Clos Roche Blanche Sauvignon #2 (Touraine) 13.8% stainless steel
Similar aromatics, but more subdued, so the high alcohol stands out even more. Lighter, less body, suggesting that alcohol is only one of the elements that make wine #2 have more body than wine #1.
I would have difficulty choosing a favourite among these three, since my ideal would be somewhere in between #1 and #2.
Then came an assortment of superb wines that I tried to sample from youngest to oldest:
2002 René & Vincent Dauvissat "Séchet" Chablis 1er Cru 13%
Nice lanolin nose. Mineral and lanolin flavors mixed with lemon and oak. Great mouth feel. Excellent wine, still very young.
1999 Domaine Ramonet "Les Vergers " Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru 13.5%
I totally loved this. Awesome and complex nose of oak butter, bacon and lemon, confirmed by excellent balance, perfect fruit/acid combination, delicious mouth feel. If it weren’t for the premox fears, I’d rush out and buy. One of the finest whites I have ever had. Thank you, Dale, for the sublime experience.
2001 Mongeard-Mugneret Échezeaux
Barnyard and cherry nose, velvety and restrained in the mouth, with an exquisite sweetness. Still young, but already delivering considerable pleasure. Lovely.
1990 Chateau Pape Clement (Pessac-Léognan)
Dark cherry, tar and bacon nose, with a hint of cloves. Perfectly resolved tannins, every component in perfect balance. A textbook example of wonderful Bordeaux, at a perfect point in its evolution.
1979 Chateau du Tertre (Margaux)
Awesome nose, of cedar, damp forest floor, smoked meat and tobacco. Love the mouldy rims of these older bottles. Great fruit, great acid, still surprisingly tannic, much more so than the preceding Bordeaux, making it even more gripping for me. Memorable and quintessential Bordeaux.
1999 Meulenhof Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 8.5%
Petrol, honey and some burnt sugar. Not immensely complex but refreshing. I liked this quite a lot.
1983 Staatliche Weinbaudomäne Trier Avelsbacher Hammerstein Riesling Auslese
Nice beeswax aroma followed by good fruit and balance. By this time I was a bit beyond notes, but enjoyed it too (but preferred the previous).
Thank you, Dale, for the embarrassment of riches! Hope you’re having a good time in California.
"I went on a rigorous diet that eliminated alcohol, fat and sugar. In two weeks, I lost 14 days." Tim Maia, Brazilian singer-songwriter.