Crémant d’Alsace AOC Cuvée Prestige Brut– René Muré – Dégorgé le 02.04.08 – Alc. 12.5% - (€ 10.19) was starter at a meal for two of Germaine’s lady friends as guests, where the two following bottles were also served. It is a deliciously crisp and mineral bubbly with lively fruit and, IMO, superior to last year’s award winning cuvée which was plusher and sweeter; 16/20 and excellent QPR.
Château Lascombes – Aoc Margaux 2ème Grand Cru Classé – 1990 - Alc.12.5% - has proved to be one of my most satisfactory purchases, in spite of, or perhaps partly because of, the estate’s mediocre reputation (very good QPR for a dozen in the mid 90s at about € 15/bottle). I have written enthusiastically about it before - viewtopic.php?f=3&t=8929&p=71083&hilit=lascombes#p71083 – and this bottle (the last) was just as fragrantly harmonious and elegant; 17/20+.
Contino – Rioja DOC – Consecha 1996 – Viñedos del Contino – Alc.13.5% - (approx. € 16 for 2003) was brought up when the Lascombes disappeared so rapidly. We were immediately struck by the weight of full ripe fruit with a lot of sweet dark cherry and the resolved structure and good length but the after-taste veered towards jamminess and cloyed somewhat in contrast to the clean and classy fragrance of the Lascombes; just about 16/20.
“Poignée de Raisins” – Côtes du Rhône AOC – 2006 – Domaine de Gramenon – Alc. 14% - (€ 12,65) is made without fining and filtering from 90% Grenache and 10% Cinsault young vines for early drinking and shows very pretty soft fruit also with a lot cherry (but less sweet and dark cherry than the Contino’s) but with enough grip to be interesting. I remember previous vintages as more exuberant but 15.5/20++ and good QPR.
This small estate produces several cuvées which are remarkably pure statements of Grenache. It is run by Michèle Aubéry, the widow of Philippe Laurent, who was killed in a hunting accident in 1999 and whom I remember for his caustic humour. Kudos here to Robert Parker who picked him out for high praise in the 90s soon after he went independent from being a supplier of the négoce.
“Les Calcinaires” Côtes du Roussillon Vilages AOC- 2005 – Domaine Gauby – Alc.13.2% - (approx. € 12) is made from Carignan, Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre and previous bottles were delicious and remarkably digestible, elegant and bright in fruit for a wine from this region. This bottle seemed to be darker, thicker and slightly more liqueur like than the previous. Maybe already past its best or merely in a relatively awkward phase. Still very enjoyable; 15.5/20+ and good QPR.
Gauby is consciously moving away from the traditional full bodied high alcohol regional style by encouraging phenolic maturity early enough to avoid excessive grape sugar. His efforts have met with a lot of praise from the Parisian press but also a lot of criticism locally, for example from Hervé Bizeul of Clos des Fées.
“Val de Sil” – Valdeorras DOC – Godello sobre lias – 2006 – Bodegas Valdelsil – Alc. 13.5% - (approx. € 11) is a white from North West Spain showing mineral and creamy white fruit aromas and a richness of body quite reminiscent of white Burgundy and good acidity but with a hint wildness and heat towards the finish which are less burgundian. I think that it will develop the greater complexity which I recall on the 2004; already a very good wine - 15.5/20 + with + potential and excellent QPR.
I believe that this cuvée sees no new wood but there is a more ambitious one, Pezas da Portela, which I recall from a tasting as richer, “sweeter” and more exotic in fruit with caramel touches from oak ageing. I have some bottles and will report in due course how it fares with food.
I think that we should be hearing a lot more about Godello from Valdeorras which seems to have real quality potential for generously bodied and harmoniously balanced whites.