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Jay Miller

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WTN: Dinner in SF at Bar Tartine

by Jay Miller » Wed Jun 21, 2006 8:24 pm

I took minimal notes here especially early on (no paper at first) but hopefully some other attendees will chime in.

NV Jacquesson 730 - really good.

1996 Billecart Salmon - also really good. Will benefit from time. Did benefit from air.

1985 Diebolt-Vallois Blanc de Blancs - Finally got some paper. Whew. This gorgeous and still vigorous Champagne, the first one approaching maturity, was just starting to show traces of mellow, warm caramel. Yum, I want to try this again in 5 years.

1997 Trimbach Frederic Emile Riesling - Mmmm. Not the best out there, but it's drinking surprisingly well for such a young Fred.

1991 Pepiere Muscadet - This was opened the night before and had a little wine poured off and was recorked. Stunningly good, so this is what the wine was supposed to taste like

1994 Pepiere Muscadet - Some vinyl shower curtain, a bit reminiscent of the ever-controversial '99 Briords. There was a lot of this left at the end of the night.

2000 Chateau Grolet - not the much-lauded 2003 (and not even the same winemaker), this was spoofy to the max. One attendee summed it up nicely with "this wine sucks".

1991 Bouchard Volnay 'Cailleret' Ancienne Cuvee Carnot - great cherry nose, young and closed on palate at first this smoothly and gradually opens and develops nuances over the course of the evening.

1999 Guy Castagnier Clos St. Denis - pretty shut down at the moment. Displays an impressive purity and looks like there's some good stuff going on but hold 'em if you got 'em.

1986 Naddef Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru 'Les Cazetiers' - lots of mushroomy funk at first but it blows off. Several people pronounce this dead but it continues to develop until I pronounce it my WOTN.

2000 Frederic Esmonin Ruchotte-Chambertin - Nice bright cherry nose, good workmanlike wine.

1991 Domaine Drouhin Pinot Noir - pure black cherry nose, attractive iodine note, silk. Wines like this are why I refuse to write off the US for pinot noir. I'd say this is in the early stage of maturity (and it's not even the Laurene!).

1994 Edmund St. John Durell Vineyard - Violets and roast meat. Can someone please explain how Steve Edmunds managed to import some Cote Rotie terroir without runnin afoul of French or US Customs? This was an early contender for red WOTN but the Naddef gradually but surely overtook it.

1997 Jasmin Cote Rotie - In contrast I must admit that this Jasmin fan found the '97 a bit disappointing. Soft and surprisingly mature, there was an annoying sour milk note that, well, annoyed me. Others liked it much more than me.


The restaurant was quite good and one I'd be happy to return to. The gougeres, the pork belly and the roasted marrow were particularly noteworthy.

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