[WTN] Negro 2004 Roero Nebbiolo

The various wine books I'd read had made me scared of Nebbiolo - the hushed tones of awed reverence that wine critics reserve for this grape seem to know no bounds. So I approached this with trepidation and - with its reputation as a tannic wine - had it over a couple of nights both on it's own and with two different dishes.

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Has a strange, thick smell reminiscent of roses and tar. I was also very struck by its colour which reminded me of stale strawberry jam.

The palate came as a complete surprise. This was no tannic monster at all, but rather soft and rounded, although the acid was a little high drunk without a meal. The flavour took some digging to get out, as there seem to be a lot in there but none of it was particularly intense. It delivers fruit first - prune and some blackcurrant - and then moves on to a curious mixture of roses, smoke, bitter chocolate and earth. The finish suddenly delivers a chewy texture out of nowhere to keep you on your toes.

We tried pairing it with a pasta in roast vegetable and garlic sauce and a mushroom risotto. The former took the acid edge off but accentuated the bitter flavours thanks to the sweet source - not a bad match, but not great either. It went very well with the risotto, keeping most of the flavour intact and enhancing the earthiness and revealing a note of tobacco I couldn't find at all without the food.

4/5 - could have done with more upfront flavour.

smell reminiscent of roses and tar..

That is of course the classic description of Piedmont nebbiolo. Had you run across it prior to tasting the wine or was that purely from inspiration?

This seems like a basic entry-level wine made for drinking earlier rather than later, which might explain the relatively low tannin levels.

Fear not, there is plenty of tannin to be found in other nebbiolo wines.

That is of course the classic description of Piedmont nebbiolo. Had you run across it prior to tasting the wine or was that purely from inspiration?.

A little bit of both. I was aware of the sorts of flavours one generally encountered in wines made from Nebbiolo - however I had no idea that those particular notes, rose and tar, were commonly found in the nose (as opposed to the palate) of Piedmont Nebbiolo.

Whether knowing roughly what to expect before you try a new wine is a good idea or not is an interesting debate. I've heard some people say that it's a bad idea because it gives you a preconception which will colour your personal opinion. On the other hand if you're inexperienced with a particular region or varietal, it can help you pick out and name flavours you might otherwise have missed. I'm fairly confident I can do the latter while retaining a personal viewpoint but I am, of course, biased. For example with this particular wine I think I'd have probably missed the chocolate descriptor - rendering it simply a "bitter" - had I not been forewarned, but on the other hand I'm not aware that earth and/or blackcurrant are usual in Nebbiolo but I'd defend that I found them in this one.

On the other hand if you're inexperienced with a particular region or varietal, it can help you pick out and name flavours you might otherwise have missed. I'm fairly confident I can do the latter while retaining a personal viewpoint but I am, of course, biased. For example with this particular wine I think I'd have probably missed the chocolate descriptor - rendering it simply a "bitter".

Well, in some respects 'bitter' might be a better and more precise descriptor than 'chocolate'. At least to me. 'Chocolate' can mean many things, including all sorts of sweet confections, but bitter conveys precisely and exactly what you experienced.

I agree that knowing what to expect from a wine can be helpful with understanding it. (Just the other week I was tasting all sorts of Hungarian Welsch riesling and found it difficult to process or place in context). But, am not sure that the flower and fruit school of TNs is the best way to go about it, because so much of it is imprecise, personal, and subjective (although oftentimes entertaining and valuable nonetheless) poetry.

Hi,

You have one of the best producers in Roero in your hands needs time.

http://www.negroangelo.it/INGLESE/HOME.htm

Ciao
Birger

needs time.

Interesting. I know some of the upper level Negros age for decades, but how long would you typically age this bottling?