WTN: Quick Notes from Rhone Party

My palate is increasingly tending towards the Rhone Varieties-they are more affordable (in general) and seem to be more consistently enjoyable. So...some quick highlight notes from Saturday night, which was mostly Rhones.

Elizabeth Spencer 2006 Mendocino Sauvignon Blanc. Not tired at all-very crystalline and mineral, yet with plentiful fruit. This negociant winery seems to nail the often unmemorable Sauvignon Blanc every time! 90 points.

Robert Sinskey Vineyards "RSV" Stag's Leap Cabernet Sauvignon 1998. I was worried about this magnum-leaked last week, and the bottom of the cork was covered in black titrate??? crystals. Nonetheless, this was one of my wines of the night. Fresh, balanced, very taut and vibrating, low alcohol, excellent Stag's Leap red fruit with lovely herbal (not bell pepper, but herbal) lead pencil, earth, food-friend acidity. This was a bravado performance by this wine. Robert Sinkey is becoming one of my favorite wineries. 95 points-stunning Cabernet.

Tim Adams Aberfeldy Clare Valley Shiraz 1999. The last bottle I know of in Vacaville Vied with the RSV for wine of the night. Amazingly earthy and balanced and savory and delicious Clare Valley Shiraz. Still plenty of fruit, but it's the texture and secondary flavors that wowed me. 95 points-again stunning.

Edmund St. John Wylie Fernaughty 2001 I now understand "the buzz." I didn't move this wine to the front table like I should have-it was a bit lost in the wide range of wines. But...amazingly dark and erathy and rich, without being jammy or sweet or over the top in any way. Extremely balanced. Darker and richer than the Clare wine, this wine just shouted "La Terre parle" Outstanding-and St. Helena Wine Company has more. 94 points and awesome QPR.

Domain Faurey St. Joseph 2006. Too young, but showing very well. Juicy, juicy black cherry fruit, with high toned acidity and fantastic black pepper and gamey meaty notes. I enjoyed this more than some, who are not experienced with Northern Rhone Syrahs. 92 points and would buy again from Kermit Lynch.

Chateau Redortier Beaumes-de-Venise Cotes du Rhones Villages 2000. I picked up my third bottle yesterday. All I need to say Fantastic QPR. 91 points, $17.

Domaine Chante Cigale Chateauneuf du Pape 2004. Direct K&L Wines Import. Fantastic nose of "garrigue" and red fruit. Not very experienced with CdP, but I loved this wine's herbacious savoryness and earthy goodness. Some heat mars the finish (14% abv), but otherwise very enjoyable. Closed down a bit on the second day-the aromatics were not there anymore and the heat was a little more evident. Still...based on the first day....92 points.

2004 Bonny Doon Old Telegraph Yummy rich, plummy, licorice-y wine. 87.

2004 Dry River Martinborough Syrah. Quite nice. Probably too young. Very Northern Rhone. Didn't shine in comparison to some of the competition, but very nice nonetheless. My style, so I might buy again. 89 points.

A very nice party, with only a couple of true disappointments. (The "7" Cab from Spring Mountain's 7&8 winery was not bad, but for the $$$ it showed nowhere near the Robert Sinskey. Just boring boring boring).

[David M. Bueker]

That ESJ is one stunner of a wine. I actually like the 2005 even better.

I agree with all that the 01 WF is great. And yet again I can't believe it is still kicking around stores.

But, with Brian's shift towards rich Rhone wines I am a little disturbed that he is leaving behind the high-acid poulsard!

Never, Rahsaan! We drank Trousseau with steak three weeks ago! And, the Faurey Saint Joseph was pretty high toned, acidic, and lifted to me (juicy, too!), for a Rhone wine. Not heavy at all-and only 12.5% nominal abv.

During the summer, though, I tend to do more cycling than San Francisco "city hikes." So...I just haven't been to K&L or Terroir Wine Bar this month, and they are my best sources for the acidic, lifted wines. I think the next party may focus on these...

I still have a bottle of Olivier Cousin Gamay. I haven't stored it perfectly (heck, even remotely properly), so it's probably a bacterial mess, but I should give it a try!

As for the ESJ, not only was it kicking around, they were selling it for 25% off the normal (still modest) retail price. I should probably send them an email or call them.