After our recent comparisons between Amancaya & Bodegas Caro v. Catena Malbec & D.V. Malbec-Malbec, Marcia wanted me to taste the more expensive Catena Alta Cabernet Sauvignon that she had tasted and liked while I was in NY last month.
2004 Catena Alta Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza 14% (US price $40/Brazil price $62)
Inky plum color. Elegant and balanced nose of plum, blackberry and vanilla, with some initial saltiness and, later, tar notes. Despite the blackberry, no hint of cedar box or lead pencil/graphite, so not likely to be confused with Bordeaux. If anything, this smells more like malbec than cabernet, suggesting that the characteristic taste of Argentinean malbec owes more to the adjective than the noun (or just more so than I previously considered). Tasted without food, this showed fine tannins and clear but unobtrusive acidity, resulting in good grip. Also good mid-palate and finish, with well integrated alcohol. After food and aeration, the gestalt of the wine settled into a state of straightforward but harmonious balance that kept me reaching out repeatedly for my glass. This is a smooth, quality wine that was a pleasure to drink, though I would expect, at this level, more complexity or uniqueness of personality. While drinking well now, this has another five, perhaps ten, years of life ahead of it, and may very well develop, in time, what I miss at this point. Aged 15 months in French oak, 80% of it new. Grapes sourced from two vineyards: Lot 3 from La Pirámide vineyard in Agrelo, alt. 3,100 ft. and Lot 2 from Domingo vineyard in Tupungato, alt. 3,770 ft.
