by Oswaldo Costa » Sun Aug 17, 2008 7:53 am
2006 Cono Sur Pinot Noir 20 Barrels Casablanca Valley 14% (US price $22/Brazil price $54)
This is the second most expensive pinot noir in the Cono Sur lineup. Cono Sur is a subsidiary of the huge Concha y Toro but has a considerable degree of autonomy and a specialty in pinot noir. A recent newspaper article described them as holding the world’s largest acreage of pinot, a strangely hollow distinction for something so “small is beautiful.” Darker ruby than would be typical for a Burgundy. Interesting nose of glycerin (as in glycerin soap), mint, and a touch of naphthalene. Good but not excessive acidity, very light tannins. Additional notes of green stems (which I tend to detect in burgundies), tire rubber and something interesting that Marcia calls “automobile repair shop.” Good midpalate and finish. Not typically Burgundian, but at least it tastes like pinot noir, and a decent one at that, perhaps a little above village level, though with a different soul. The nose becomes stronger in the glass as time passes and, given its youth, I think this could deliver some interesting surprises in a few years. At $22, I would get half a case just to see what happens year by year.
"I went on a rigorous diet that eliminated alcohol, fat and sugar. In two weeks, I lost 14 days." Tim Maia, Brazilian singer-songwriter.