There’s a very good restaurant in São Paulo called From the Galley that offers a single seating per evening and a new tasting menu every month. It’s expensive, but doesn’t charge corkage, so one doesn’t do so badly. The friend who Marcia and I invited had a falling out with his girlfriend just before dinner, so only three of us (sniff) shared some of the best wine and food I have had in a long time:
2002 Blanc de Lynch-Bages 13% 375ml
Very pale light straw and, served too cold, threw off only some anis in the glass. As it warmed up, a beguiling mix of fruits emerged, among the most satisfying that I have ever tasted: pear, cantaloupe, citrus and persimmon, with some musk notes. Good acidity, but as the lentil soup neutralized that acidity, the wine acquired an almost glassy smoothness, with no trace of muscularity or oak, deriving its power from tremendous delicacy and inner composure, like David Carradine at the end of every episode of Kung Fu, when he decides it’s time to explode. One of the finest white wines I have ever had, absolutely memorable. Served with scallops in watercress sauce, followed by a delicious lentil soup with crème fraiche and Parma ham.
1997 Giacomo Bologna Barbera d’Asti Ai Suma 14%
Deep purple, like smoke on the water. Complex nose, featuring wet earth, stewed prunes and some surprising, Bordeaux-like cedar. Lovely mouth feel, vibrant but very pleasing acidity, low tannin, as is typical, but full of grip. Tar and glue notes evolve in the glass. Delicious. Debonair and alluring, like Marcello Mastroianni on steroids. Served with a succession of linguine in white truffle butter, an exquisite cod fish brandade with garlic oil, and an equally delicious chicken breast stuffed with foie gras and a superb port wine reduction.
2005 Selbach-Oster Riesling Auslese Schmitt 9%
Thanks to David Bueker for calling attention to this. Wow. Standard pale gold color, but there’s nothing standard about the attack. Floral (acacia), mineral, honey and pineapple with a zingy, almost frizzy acidity that is just delightful. Perfect acid/sweetness balance, and wonderfully versatile, could go anywhere, before, during, or after a meal. Compared to the Jeanne Moreau of my benchmark for auslese - the Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr - this is more like Brigitte Bardot in Godard's Contempt. Served with goat cheese with maple and olive tapenade, followed by a delicious tapioca soup with tangerine sorbet.