WTN: Surprising '96 German, OK '98 Burg

[David M. Bueker]

Quick dinner with a friend at a local Asian BYO place

1996 Muller-Catoir Haardter Herzog Riesling Spatlese
This was a stunner when it was first released, then later it became not much more than a glass full of acid & weird fruit. Well tonight it appears to have emerged from a 10 year funk. Blending citrus and tree fruit flavors with bright (but not searing) acidity & some petrol & smoke overtones, this was an outstanding bottle of Riesling, completely living up to its early promise. Great on its own and with food, where its slight sweetness made it a fine partner with some fancy sushi rolls.

1998 Rene Engel Vosne-Romanee Les Brulees
Slightly cloudy (?), but aromatically interesting, this never (even now 2 hours+ after opening while sitting at the PC) really hit its stride. It's drinkable enough, but not exciting in any way. It's sort of a C+ type of wine.

. It's drinkable enough, but not exciting in any way. .

How I usually feel about Rene Engel. But I've had a couple good ones recently ('00 Clos Vougeot for one). Thanks for notes.

David,
For additional reference, these are my last 2 tasting notes. As usual, sounds like your cellar yields wine a year or two behind mine. Will drink one soon.
Charles

• 1996 Müller-Catoir Haardter Herzog Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Pfalz (10/18/2007)
  A very complete wine. Initial impression of oxidation, but just a bit of burnt sugar to complement deep yellow fruits. Off-dry now
• 1996 Müller-Catoir Haardter Herzog Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Pfalz (2/18/2006)
  Golden hue, yellow fruits and some honey on the nose. Excellent intensity. Sweeter than expected at 10 yrs old, but enough balancing acidity to go with food (slow-roasted wild salmon) as well as be sipped on its own. Some burnt sugar in the finish. Not sure whether the future holds improvement.

[David M. Bueker]

I think the Catoir is exactly at peak from my cellar right now. I am going to drink my remaining 3 bottles over the next year or two.