2004 Forgeron Zinfandel, Washington
There's a very little amount of zinfandel being grown in Washington, and at $32 this is probably the most expensive. Opened a bottle last weekend that showed very pronounced American oak and cedary notes. Hated it, let guests drink most of the bottle, then ended up with about 2 inches of wine in the bottom of the bottle with a cork barely stuck into the neck for the next six days. Last night I went to pour it out, presuming "of course it's a goner by now" but I tasted it first. What a surprise! It's not a goner at all, in fact it's become a very relaxed and elegant wine, still zinny but very well-rounded, like a Biale. Have one remaining bottle, will leave it for 2012 or beyond.
2001 Copain Syrah, Eaglepoint Ranch, Mendocino County, California
What a nice place this is in right now. The last bottle we opened, about 18 months ago, seemed very California-ish, sweet, black and sappy like a Paso Robles but without the alcohol. Not any more--it's really come into balance. There's red fruit amid the black, with herbs and minerality amid the developing secondary nuances. Good acidity and silky tannins suggest there's no rush to drink the rest--the wine should hold here or improve for a few years.
