WTN: A Visit With EmilioCastelli...(long/boring)

A Visit and Dinner With Emilio Castelli (Thurs/Aug 21)

I've known Emilio for a number of yrs in CyberSpace. Every time I'd make a post that contained
a reference to Nebbiolo, he'd usually chime in. I was aware that he'd planted Nebb in a very cool
area, GreenVlly of the SonomaCoast/RussianRvr, and was making a bit of wine from it. Prompted by
some recent/good Calif Nebbs and the open afternoon/evening on my calendar, I thought this would
be a great opportunity to check out what he's doing with Nebb.
His ranch is located out on GreenVllyRd just a bit east of Occidental and a stone's throw from
Marcy Keefer's ranch. Pretty cool growing area for Nebb, mostly Pinot & Chard out here. He has
a small block of Nebbiolo Lampia that he planted in 1997. He also farms Nebbiolo and PinotNoir
on two neighbor's lots. He's not had any trouble ripening Nebb here, though it's often into late
November afore it fully ripens. His grandfather used to make wine over in the Lake Como area of
Italy, which is just nearby to the Valtelline. So Emilio is very familar with this rendition
of Nebbiolo. Born in the area, his background was in medical instruments from his family's
business. Educated here in the USofA, he frequently returns to visit family at LakeComo. His wife,
Laura, is the producer of a RiverWalk Jazz show that airs on NPR and other stations.

He is truly a garagiste, making a small amount of estate Nebb (and Sangiovese) in the garage
of his house. In '07, he also got a ton of Nebbiolo from SteveClifton/StolpmanVnyd. In '08, in
addition to the Clifton fruit, he will get a ton of Nebb (Michet) from RanchoSisquoc. Emilio's in
the process of building a (rice) straw bale wnry but the roof's not yet on and the Pinot's ready
to come in, so it's back to the garage for now. Hopefully, it'll be roofed in time for the Nebb's
arrival in October. The label is a rather clever one...and he's managed to hoodwink the TTB on it.
It has some drawings of three beautiful Naked Ladies on it....but the flowers of that name, not
any wemmin.

1. Castelli Estate Nebbiolo GreenVlly/RRV (13%) 2004: Med.dark color; strong floral/violets
slight tarry very distinctive Nebb nose; bit lean/tart/hard somewhat astringent/tannic light
floral/lilacs flavors; med.long tart/lean somewhat astringent lightly floral/tarry finish;
some old Piedmonte Nebb character in the nose & definitely Nebb in character.
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2. Castelli Estate Nebbiolo GreenVlly/RRV (13%) 2005: Med.dark color; stronger/riper more floral/
violets/lilacs very light tarry rather perfumed nose; bit richer/lusher more floral/lilacs
light tarry/pungent some tannic/astringent flavor; long ripe/floral/lilacs slight tarry somewhat
tannic/astringent finish; not as much old Nebb character as the '04 and more floral & ripe
character.
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3. Mamette Prevostini Sassella Valteline Superior 2005:Light color; rather earthy/minerally some
pungent/tarry/light licorice light floral/violets slight oak rather flashy nose; tart fairly
rich/pungent/tarry/licorice light perfumed/floral very light oak flavor; med.long light floral/
violets fairly pungent/tarry/asphalt/licorice some astringent/tannic finish; needs another 4-8 yrs;
fairly modern-style classic Valtelline Nebbiolo
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4. Marcarini Barolo Brunate 1998: Med.light color; quite earthy/tarry very light floral/lilacs
quite perfumed/aromatic/ethereal lovely nose; pretty hard/lean/tannic fairly acid light floral/
lilacs light tarry rather perfumed/aromatic flavor; very long tannic/astringent/acid/lean/hard
light floral/lilacs light pungent/tarry/asphalt on a hot Kansas summer day finish; beautiful
aromatics but still pretty hard/tannic on the palate.
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5. Hanna BismarkRanch SonomaVlly Nebbiolo (14.3%) 1998: Med.dark color; rather pencilly/toasty/oak
very floral/lilacs somewhat herbal weakly Nebb almost Pinotish nose; soft/rich/lush light
floral/lilacs bit herbal somewhat toasty/oak lightly tannic/astringent flavor; med.long some
toasty/oak light floral/herbal finish w/ modest tannins; rather Calif/Pinotish in style and
only hints of Nebbiolo.
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And a wee BloodyPulpit:
1. Both of Emilio's Nebbs spoke clearly of Nebbiolo. He felt the SO2 level was a bit lower in the
'04 then he'd like and was not developing as well as he'd hoped. The '05 was more Calif in style
to my taste and as good as any Calif Nebb I've had.
When talking of Valtelline Nebs, Emilio mentioned as some of his favorites those of Arturo
Pelizatti. I immediately lit up as the Pelizattis were my first eye-opener to the glories of
Valtelline Nebbiolo. Alas, I've not seen them here in the USofA since buying them at Boulder's
LiquorMart in the mid-'70's. The Prevostini that Emilio had brought back from one of his trips to
Italy was my favorite of the evening. I'd only had one other Prevostini ('95) before and liked
it quite a lot. It struck me as much like the Sandro fay Valtellines in style...a bit on the
flashy side but speaking of Valtelline Nebbiolo. The Marcarini was pretty typical of what I
struggle w/ in Piemonte Nebbs. It had this wonderful fragrant/perfumey nose but was pretty
hard & lean on the palate. Laura's Risotto Milanese helped ameliorate the tannins, but I still
found it a bit hurtey.
The Hanna was a new Nebb for me. I was totally unaware that they had Nebb at BismarkRanch,
in the upper reaches of the AlexanderVlly. I liked the wine quite a lot as a Calif red wine,
but it didn't speak all that loudly of Nebbiolo. Alas, they have since pulled that planting.
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2. Emilio is (according to his back label) an adherent of "natural farming" of MasanobuFukuoka,
who incidently died just that Sat afore we left for Calif. It's not a name I've heard much
of in grape farming circles. Applied mostly to grain farming, I'm not sure what of his
techniques Emilio has embraced in his grape farming. I can say that his vnyd was in sharp
contrast to the neat/well-tended/pristine Korbel vnyd just down at the end of his road. Let's
just say that Emilio's vines look far from being coddled.
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3. Calif Nebbiolo: Based on Emilio's versions, Adam Lee's, some of Jim Clendennan's, certainly
SashiMoorman's, and certainly SteveClifton's Nebbiolos, I think Calif is well on the track to
making great Nebbiolo. It won't be great Piedmonte Nebbiolo, and, to me, that's a big plus.
They don't seem to yet capture that ethereal fragrance that great Nebbiolo shows, but the
tarry/asphalt/pungent and lightly floral character is there. And they don't seem to show
the minerallity and terroir that Valtelline Nebbiolo often has. And the key will be finding
that right balance on the palate of Nebbs (often-) fierce tannins, letting some of it show
thru w/o totally emasculating them and turning it into a Calif whorish rendition of Nebbiolo.
I don't think micro-bullage of Nebb is what we want to do.

Have you ever run across the Altamura Nebbiolo, Tom? It's grown, I believe, just up the road from me in Wooden Valley below Mount George in the hidden, eastern side of Napa County.

Have you ever run across the Altamura Nebbiolo, Tom? It's grown, I believe, just up the road from me in Wooden Valley below Mount George in the hidden, eastern side of Napa County.

Brian,
I was aware that they had a Nebb but, at $70/btl, was not tempted to gamble on it.
He's known as a Cabernet producer and like many of the NapaVlly Cab producers, as with Syrah, the
tend to use the same growing/winemaking techniques on these other varietals they use on Cab. So it come
out as tasting like a Syrah, or a Nebbiolo, made by a Cabernet producer. Not saying that his is like that, since I've
not tasted it...but it was a $70 gamble I was not inclined to take.
Have you had it, Brian??
Tom

Not yet. Like you say, it's a pricey gamble.

Haven't been too convinced by many California attempts to grow Italian varieties. Especially from a QPR. For example, why pay $50 for an (admittedly pretty good) Luna Reserve Chianti when you can get a good Riserva from Italy for less than $30, even with the Euro. And most Cali Sangiovese I've tried is, to me, somewhat awful.

I guess the argument above could be used to justify a 100% old world cellar. However, I think California does have something to say about Syrah and Cab and certainly Zinfandel and Petit Sirah. Heck-I've had decent Foothills Barbera, even.

Haven't been too convinced by many California attempts to grow Italian varieties. Especially from a QPR. For example, why pay $50 for an (admittedly pretty good) Luna Reserve Chianti when you can get a good Riserva from Italy for less than $30, even with the Euro. And most Cali Sangiovese I've tried is, to me, somewhat awful.
I guess the argument above could be used to justify a 100% old world cellar. However, I think California does have something to say about Syrah and Cab and certainly Zinfandel and Petit Sirah. Heck-I've had decent Foothills Barbera, even.

Well, Brian......if there's been any success w/ Italian varietals in Calif...I'd have to say it's Barbera. Some of those CaryGott made at
Montevina in the late '70's were as good as any made anywhere in the world. Same can be said for Scott Harvey's Renwood Barberas
in the early '90's. They spoke clearly of Barbera...but w/ a Calif accent.
To tell the truth, I've not been all that taken by Sangio in Calif. But then I'm not a big fan of Tuscan Sangio all that much, either.
And the Tuscan ones I seem to like the best are the ones made in a Calif/International style...and the ones that get the big points.
But Sangio has some varietal character that I like...namely that bright/vibrant cherry perfume. If they can capture that in Calif, and get it
right on the palate...they will succeed in making great Sangio in Calif...but one that speaks w/ a Calif voice.
I think the best success in Calif w/ Italian varietals lies w/ some of the other varieties. Forget the biggies of Sangio and Nebb. Focus on things like Toreldego, Schiopettino, Refosco (Mondeuse), Nero d'Avala, maybe Sagrantino, Negramaro, Prim itivo ( ).
One of the problems that people have w/ Italian varietals in Calif is the expectations. Their reference is to Tuscan Sangio or Piemonte Nebb. If the Calif versions don't resemble those very well, people to to dismiss them as a failed attempt. It's like PinotNoir was in the '70's. Everybody was trying to make them so they taste like RedBurg...the closer to that model the better. Now Calif is allowed to speak w/ a clearly Calif voice and recognized as being great Pinot for that reason. If people will allow Nebb and Sangio to speak w/ a unique/distinct Calif voice, then maybe we'll get somewhere.
Syrah has been the poster boy for success in Calif...they make world-class Syrah now in Calif. They're well on their way to success w/ Tempranillo, I think. And it can be donn w/ Sangio and Nebb as well.
But what the heck would I know!! If I don't like Tuscan Sangio and Piemonte Nebb...I can't be trusted in these matters.
Tom