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Paul B.

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WTN: Graf Hardegg 2004 Riesling Steinbügel, Niederösterreich

by Paul B. » Sun Jun 25, 2006 1:41 am

Another Austrian Riesling that I acquired recently.

13% alc./vol. Clear bright straw colour with a youthful greenish tinge. Not much effervescence; in fact, very little. Nice diesel and pineapples on the nose with some intriguing white-pepper spice that's quite a novelty (for me at least, in Riesling). Ripe, forceful, bright and assertive acidity on the fore-palate, with that familiar electrifying texture that I so enjoy in Austrian Riesling. Fully dry; unhindered acidity that's truly wonderful. Expansive tartness and minerals on the mid- to fore-palate with a dry texture and exemplary food-friendliness. Excellent dryness and tart/minerally texture; no unwelcome sugary add-on here. This is an admirable dry Riesling from a country that has clearly perfected the paradigm. Excellent table wine ... a truly exemplary Riesling. I really enjoy Riesling (and all whites, really) in this style.
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Michael Pronay

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Re: WTN: Graf Hardegg 2004 Riesling Steinbügel, Niederösterreich

by Michael Pronay » Mon Jun 26, 2006 12:10 pm

Glad you liked it. It comes from a corner not really reputed for top notch riesling — remember, Weinviertel is veltliner country. All the better for this effort from Peter Malberg who is the wine estate manager of Maximilian Count Hardegg whose main interest is agriculture (some 3,000 hectares, iirc).
Ceterum censeo corticem esse delendam
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Paul B.

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Re: WTN: Graf Hardegg 2004 Riesling Steinbügel, Niederösterreich

by Paul B. » Mon Jun 26, 2006 2:23 pm

Thanks for the info, Michael. I found it a very well made and solid Riesling, though it did not have any particular aromatic power - just on the right side of subtle. I'm still waiting to come across a really dieselly Austrian Riesling - I love dieselly Rieslings.
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Michael Pronay

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Re: WTN: Graf Hardegg 2004 Riesling Steinbügel, Niederösterreich

by Michael Pronay » Tue Jun 27, 2006 2:35 am

If you like diesel, you won't find it in young rieslings. But i'm pretty sure it will develop after 5 to 8 years of cellaring.
Ceterum censeo corticem esse delendam

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