Article: Top 100 Brands/100 Individual Wines in Restaurants

I saw this while looking at WineBusiness.com and thought it might be of interest:

Top 100 Brands & 100 Individual Wines in USA Restaurants in 2007 Unveiled by Restaurant Wine Magazine

Well, thats all very interesting. I was always quite sceptical about the annual results in the Wine and Spirits magazine so look forward to comments here on this list that Gary has posted.
Rics Grill, a western Canadian company, that I am involved with does not feature any of those value-brand wines. Red Lobster and the Olive Garden probably do but I do not frequent these establishments!!

Ekshally, there's some good news in there for wine drinkers, and even better news for potential future inductees into wine geekdom.

Not the brands, but the fact that Pinot Noir and Riesling have grown so considerably, as well as the fact that Sauvignon Blanc and Sangiovese have been raised to the consciousness of cheap restaurant fodder.

The mover diversity the better.

Of course, the countering news of Pinot grigio/gris rising balances that out.

And please, please, please, keep in mind that the Wiegand/Restaurant Wine poll/report is significantly different from the Wine & Spirits Annual Restaurant Poll. Different creatures entirely, and not to be conflated.

Thanks Hoke for your thoughts on the write-up. Pinot Noir and Riesling on the rise eh...will have to talk to the wine buyers quick.
Here in Alberta, not so sure these rank right up there right now. Dr L used to sell at the Grill when on the list, PN not so sure but not the greatest selection I seem to remember.
Trouble is we have all steak houses so reds sell like crazy, including Amarone.

Inglenook Chablis? How do they get away with that?

Inglenook Chablis? How do they get away with that?

And Taylor California Cellars Chablis!!!!!!

Interesting that Concannon moved up. I seem to remember them being much more prominent a decade or two ago.

[Jenise]

I was surprised by: "The five wines whose on-premise volumes declined the most from 2006 to 2007 were: Shiraz, down 22 percent, primarily because of supply problems in Australia". What is the nature of the "supply problems", if anyone knows? Can't even guess, judging by the Yellow Tail flowing around my hood.

I was surprised by: "The five wines whose on-premise volumes declined the most from 2006 to 2007 were: Shiraz, down 22 percent, primarily because of supply problems in Australia". What is the nature of the "supply problems", if anyone knows? Can't even guess, judging by the Yellow Tail flowing around my hood.

Isn't this caused by the severe drought making high volume lost cost wines a losing proposition for stressed wineries?

I was surprised by: "The five wines whose on-premise volumes declined the most from 2006 to 2007 were: Shiraz, down 22 percent, primarily because of supply problems in Australia". What is the nature of the "supply problems", if anyone knows? Can't even guess, judging by the Yellow Tail flowing around my hood.

Sever drought going on for 4-5 harvests now, more severe in some areas than others, but very severe overall.

I question whether the decline is "primarily because of supply problems in Australia" however. That's definitely a major issue, no doubt about that. But I think there's more.

I've been thinking, for quite some time, about the overall nature of what Syrah/Shiraz is/has become, and specifically the level of acceptance in this country.

Without going into too long and involved an explanation (and you guys know how windy I can be , so you can thank me later), I don't know that Syrah/Shiraz has effectively established itself as a long-term contender to dominant status in the hearts and minds of US wine drinkers.

I thought for a while it had a good shot at it, but I've changed my mind. I think Syrah/Shiraz may have peaked, and may not be in recession mode overall as a major variety in this market.

As I said, lotta factors led me to this. And I may very well be wrong (have been before, FSM knows). But being wrong has never stopped me before.

I'd be interested in what anyone has to say about this...

Interesting that Concannon moved up. I seem to remember them being much more prominent a decade or two ago.

I believe that's a result of ownership change/acquisition/distribution power more than anything else, Mike.

[Jenise]

I question whether the decline is "primarily because of supply problems in Australia" however. That's definitely a major issue, no doubt about that. But I think there's more.

I've been thinking, for quite some time, about the overall nature of what Syrah/Shiraz is/has become, and specifically the level of acceptance in this country.

...

That's where I was going with my question. In spite of my personal tastes, the wines I drink at most people's houses are in the affordable, corporate brands that rank highest on this list. And these days, at those homes, I'm less likely to encounter shiraz and merlot than was the case 3-5 years ago and more inclined to see pinot noir, zinfandel and cabernet, pinot noir especially now that there are reasonable versions (Macmurray and Castle Rock, for instance) that compete at the same price point as the Ozzies. And the people that are buying these wines know nothing about droughts--the wines they've always bought are still there. They're just looking for variety and experimenting more often.

I question whether the decline is "primarily because of supply problems in Australia" however. That's definitely a major issue, no doubt about that. But I think there's more.

I've been thinking, for quite some time, about the overall nature of what Syrah/Shiraz is/has become, and specifically the level of acceptance in this country.

...

That's where I was going with my question. In spite of my personal tastes, the wines I drink at most people's houses are in the affordable, corporate brands that rank highest on this list. And these days, at those homes, I'm less likely to encounter shiraz and merlot than was the case 3-5 years ago and more inclined to see pinot noir, zinfandel and cabernet, pinot noir especially now that there are reasonable versions (Macmurray and Castle Rock, for instance) that compete at the same price point as the Ozzies. And the people that are buying these wines know nothing about droughts--the wines they've always bought are still there. They're just looking for variety and experimenting more often.

Aha, part of my reasoning/conclusions too, Jenise. We appear to be in harmonic convergence here.

I'm sort of coming to the conclusion that the perceived popular style of Syrah/Shiraz, primarily created by the Australians but now being echoed by most of California, Washington, and even parts of France (Languedoc-Roussillon) and Italy, will end up not 'sticking' in the public realm. For some of the same reasons that Merlot faded, actually, but even more so.

Syrah is probably the most amenable red grape variety for making a full spectrum of wine types. It is capable of conforming to a wide range of climate zones. You can make Syrah from hot climates; you can make Syrah from cold climates. Way different wines, but you still get acceptable results.

Trouble is---for me---those wines made in warmer climates tend to be primarily fruit gobs, with no bone structure. Neither high in acids nor tannins, and therefore essentially flaccid wine. And that's the problem. I think even the most accomodating and clueless of consumers eventually gets tired of that, and has the idea of moving on. They may not even realize it---in fact, I'm certain most don't realize it----but they somehow want more. More definition, I think.

Let me hasten to add here, before I get pilloried by the faithful, that I place certain wines far, far outside this criticism. Like Edmunds-St. John, like certain exceptional (to me) Australian Shirazes with definition and character (even some of the gobby ones, as long as they have accompanying structure and acidity), and definitely excepting the Cote Roties and Hermitages and such.

Nope, I'm referring to the fairly common, large production/used to be low cost but is staring to climb Syrahs out there.

I think that Syrah/Shiraz will slowly, not immediately, but slowly, drop down the market rankings. Part of that is a maturing consumer base (although they may not even realize it). I think that is one reason why the Pinots and Rieslings, for example, are making such headway. Even a modest Pinot Noir of average quality tends to have infinitely more structure and appeal than the average underperforming gobby Shiraz/Syrah.

Syrah is probably the most amenable red grape variety for making a full spectrum of wine types. It is capable of conforming to a wide range of climate zones. You can make Syrah from hot climates; you can make Syrah from cold climates. Way different wines, but you still get acceptable results.

Or, as one winemaker (Steve E?) put it, "Syrah grows like a weed."

Trouble is---for me---those wines made in warmer climates tend to be primarily fruit gobs, with no bone structure. Neither high in acids nor tannins, and therefore essentially flaccid wine. And that's the problem. I think even the most accomodating and clueless of consumers eventually gets tired of that, and has the idea of moving on. They may not even realize it---in fact, I'm certain most don't realize it----but they somehow want more. More definition, I think.

Having now watched the cyclical nature of wine fashions for the better part of three decades, Hoke, I see this as yet another manifestion of the boom/bust cycle for grapes. Having taken the US by storm, gobby Shiraz with noticeable RS has become a commercial monoculture and the public is, gradually, growing a bit tired of it. Coupled with the acknowledged shift among white wine drinkers away from OTT CalChards to more crisp, leaner whites, this change tempts me to speculate that the American palate is actually maturing a bit. Is it that Baby Boomers such as myself have now been drinking wine long enough to have become jaded about the dominant styles? Or could it be that more people are drinking wine with their meals and less as a cocktail?

Let me hasten to add here, before I get pilloried by the faithful, that I place certain wines far, far outside this criticism. Like Edmunds-St. John, like certain exceptional (to me) Australian Shirazes with definition and character (even some of the gobby ones, as long as they have accompanying structure and acidity), and definitely excepting the Cote Roties and Hermitages and such.

I doubt that anyone would seriously doubt your intent, Hoke, or have assumed that you were dissing Allemand's Cornas and ESJ '05 Bassetti. But, if you want to dodge a few brickbats, I'll heave a few your way.

Mark Lipton

Odd! I don't think that I have ever drunk any of those top 20 wines except Martini, if that is a wine, or indeed wines from any of the top 20 brands except Kendall Jackson once when in the USA and Martini & Rossi, of course. It shows that the Atlantic is still a big barrier in wine matters.

Tim, I think one would have to only look at the top brands available on supermarket shelves in the UK to realize which wines have mass appeal. The UK forum folks spread the word quite nicely!!
Supermarkets/box grocery stores cannot sell wine/spirits in their stores here in Alberta but I can visualize which wines would be prominent if allowed!

20 Martini & Rossi Vermouth Vermouth Italy Bacardi USA, Inc.

I would guess they sell twice as much gin.

"The Top 100 Wine Brands come from only six countries: Australia, Chile, France, Germany, Italy, and the USA. Of these, only Australia lost market share in 2007, due primarily to supply problems. "

I am very surprised not to see Spain on that list. Don't Spanish wines get into US restaurants? Rioja often features in the UK.

The other point I'd make is that over here restaurants often do not list well-known brands, preferring to find more obscure wines. The advantage of that being that their punters do not know the comparable retail prices, making it easier to apply high markups. It also gives and air of exclusivity, and stops customer associating the restaurant with supermarkets. In fact some importers will sell certain labels only to the on-trade, thus making them more popular with that sector. Is it the same in the US? If so the concept of the top restaurant brands is perhaps not very meaningful.

In fact some importers will sell certain labels only to the on-trade, thus making them more popular with that sector. Is it the same in the US? If so the concept of the top restaurant brands is perhaps not very meaningful.

Gallo has been doing it for decades. Others have joined in more recently.

I am very surprised not to see Spain on that list. Don't Spanish wines get into US restaurants? Rioja often features in the UK.

A reminder that the US and the UK are two very different places, Steve.

Remember, we're talking largely national chains here, places like Applebees and Fridays and Sharis, the ones that report what they list.

Those places don't attract, nor do they cater to, wine drinkers. They are looking for whatever mass appeal will satisfy the lowest common denominator. They are, simply, not places people go to for wine.

And places like that, in the US, wouldn't even consider putting a Spanish wine on the list. Hell, they don't usually get past chardonnay and merlot.

I remember fighting valiantly with one account (which will forever remain un-named here) to get one, just one, sauvignon blanc on a list to accompany the six totally similar chardonnays. They wouldn't do it. Too much of a chance, they said. Waste of valuable space on a wine list, they said. Not enough of their clientele were interested in it or familiar with it, they said.

And, yes,, there's lots of restaurant-only brands here. Big business----at both ends of the restaurant wine spectrum. Gallo has several; other large companies usually have some too. For the lowball places, they don't want the customer to know just how cheap the wines are. Ditto for the high end places, but the rationale is a little different there: a place with a sommelier/steward wants to distinguish itself by having unique and unusual offerings...discoveries by said sommelier. Plus, of course, they can charge waaaaay more for the unknown names.

The Aussie "supply problem" is a canard. This may sound unbelievable, but it's true: Australia has been a huge supplier of rice; drought has decimated the rice business. What are farmers planting instead? An agricultural product that is far less water-intensive: Grapes.

Hoke,
Apropos your comment on trying to get Sauvignon Blanc listed. A few years ago I dined at one of the three top restaurants in town (maybe the best for food at that time.) I was alone so was ordering wine by the glass. Because I was going with seafood, I wanted a white wine. They had EIGHT California Chardonnays by the glass, one Riesling I had never heard of, a Pinot Gris and a Pinot Grigio (not my favorite variety) and Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand only by the bottle! The next time I dined there they had added one California Sauvignon Blanc by the glass and it turned out to be an intensely oaked one! Under new ownership the wine list improved but they also changed the whole appearance and concept of the restaurant and it ended up going out of business.
Hilltop House Restaurant had the best by-the-glass wine list in town while Kristine Miller was sommelier but she resigned earlier this year and is concentrating on getting an advanced degree in the hospitality business (as well as raising her new baby.) Some of my favorites from the list Kristine put together are no longer carried at Hilltop House. (I liked some of her Spanish red selections and Hope the Ripper Shiraz from Australia among others.)

Sorry to hear that story, JC, as I like Fayetteville---and it seems like it's going in the wrong direction, wine wise!

But even in the most cosmopolitan of places around this country, it's still hit or miss whether you'll find a good selection of wines to be had.

And as much as we have improved as a nation where wine appreciation is concerned, there are still vast wastelands out there where there is very little true wine culture.

Fayetteville does have a Fayetteville Wine Society (first meeting in January 2007 and has met almost every month since then) of which Kristine was one of the three founders. It attracts a good crowd every meeting and is now affiliated with American Wine Society. They are arranging for members to attend a trade tasting in Raleigh on October 15th but that is the day I leave for my trip to Santa Barbara County. I was trying to find out when the trade tasting occurred before making my plane reservations but couldn't get a definite answer and thought it might be earlier in October. They will have a bus going from Fayetteville for the tasting so that members don't have to "spit" all the wines.

I am very surprised not to see Spain on that list. Don't Spanish wines get into US restaurants? Rioja often features in the UK.

A reminder that the US and the UK are two very different places, Steve.

Remember, we're talking largely national chains here, places like Applebees and Fridays and Sharis, the ones that report what they list.

Those places don't attract, nor do they cater to, wine drinkers. They are looking for whatever mass appeal will satisfy the lowest common denominator. They are, simply, not places people go to for wine.

And places like that, in the US, wouldn't even consider putting a Spanish wine on the list. Hell, they don't usually get past chardonnay and merlot.

But, regardless, the top 100 includes wines from Australia, Chile, and Germany. Spain produces more wine than these countries combined. Is there some historical reason why Spain is not represented?